Showing posts with label replant. Show all posts
Showing posts with label replant. Show all posts

Wednesday, September 18, 2019

Live at Mount Funky Music Festival

A few weeks ago, I played a set at the Mount Funky Music Festival in Nova Scotia.  This is the seventh year that the festival has been hosted, but the first time that I had been able to play or even attend.

It has been a while since I've accepted a request to play a set.  I was hesitant to accept this gig too, especially since I only found out about it 72 hours before the show, and since I was in British Columbia at the time.  For those of you who aren't familiar with Canadian geography, Nova Scotia and British Columbia are pretty far apart (about 5000 kilometers), as they're located on opposite coasts.  However, I had a short three-day gap in my schedule, so I decided to put in an appearance.  And I was really glad that I did!

Incidentally, the reason that I've been pretty low-key on the DJ scene and YouTube production scene for a few years is because I've gotten even more heavily involved in reforestation than I was even just a few years ago.  For instance, last winter, I released three planting-related books on Amazon, which you can find if you want to visit my new author website:


Also, I've recently started another reforestation company, but instead of focusing on post-harvest industrial scale reforestation that is mandated by government policy, this one will rely on the generosity of global sponsors who donate money to have trees planted solely because it's good for our planet.  Check out this website if you're interested:



Anyway, back to the music.  Unfortunately, the stage wasn't recording all the DJ sets that night, and I forgot to bring a personal audio recorder.  So I'm not able to share a recording of my set.  However, for those of you who were interested, here's a set list:

01.  Frank Kid - Happy Funker (Original Mix).
02.  Enrico Sangiuliano - X Pollination (Original).
03.  Adam Beyer & Mark Reeve - Nine Of You (Original).
04.  Shake Inc. - Reaktor (Alex Senna).
05.  Diego Lima - MadaFuckers (Original).
06.  Phonista - Union Square (Original).
07.  Christian Smith - Blast Off (Victor Ruiz).
08.  Umek - Incinerator (Original).
09.  Umek - Mechanical Blade (Original).
10.  Hoxton Whores - Stand Myself (Kevin Andrews Remix).
11.  Hoxton Whores - Welcome To The Whorehouse (Hoxton Whores Burlesque Club Mix).
12.  Jay Lumen - Warehouse Trip (Original).
13.  Jhony Rivers - Zerotonin (German Agger Remix).
14.  Vic Ben - Return (Djahir Miranda Remix).
15.  Alberto Ruiz - Room (Original).
16.  Urban Francis & Bolivia - Hijack (Original).
17.  DJ PP - Has To Be Done (Handzoff Remix).
18.  Clark Fable - Midnight Marauder (Milo Zanneti Remix).
19.  Olivier Giacomotto - Bipolar Star (Victor Ruiz Remix).
20.  Rydel - Beat The Men (Original Mix).

Incidentally, here's a video for Hijack, a track that I did with Urban Francis, which I played in the middle of the set.




Anyway, the festival was a great time, and I was really glad to be back DJ'ing again.



I'm Jonathan Clark, known online as DJ Bolivia.  Do you want to learn more about DJ'ing and music production?  If so, visit:



If you happen to enjoy techno tracks, most of my tracks are available as free downloads from this link:



Thanks so much for visit, and for your support!  I really appreciate the fan base that I've been able to build up over the years.

Also, if you want to visit any of my other sites, here are a few links:
    YouTube:  youtube.com/djbolivia
    SoundCloud:  soundcloud.com/djbolivia
    Blogger:  djbolivia.blogspot.com
    Main Site:  www.djbolivia.ca

Wednesday, February 22, 2017

Tree Planter Training 20 - Wrap Up

Although this blog is predominantly focused on my music and DJ’ing career, I also want to share some information about my other career:  Canadian Reforestation.

The information in this post is part of a training series from the Replant.ca website.  More information can be found at this link:



I’ll put the text and audio download link from this training module below, but let’s start with the YouTube video for the module:




Section 20 - “Wrap Up”

Congratulations, you've reached the end of our tutorial series.  We've covered a lot of material.  I know that it probably didn't all sink in, but at this point, you should have a solid grounding of what the tree planting industry is all about, and a broad foundation upon which to build further knowledge.

Reviewing all of this material has probably really opened your eyes.  When you first heard about tree planting, you probably got a mental image that involved a lot of manual labour, and not much thinking.  That couldn't be further from the truth.  If tree planting was an hourly wage-based job, that stereotype would probably be a correct perspective.  But tree planting is not paid hourly, it's paid by piece rates.  The more productive you are, the more money you make.  Because of that, it's in your best interest to learn, study, practice, and refine your techniques, to make yourself as fast and efficient as possible.  The piece-rate nature of the industry has turned it into a very intellectual exercise, where the smartest planters can leverage their knowledge into money.

The amount of information in these tutorials has probably been overwhelming for you.  At this point, you've been inundated with lots of facts, suggestions, and terminology, and I have no doubt that you probably don't remember more than a third of it all.  Once you've been planting for three or four weeks, I'd recommend that you review some of the key material again, particularly the sections about employment standards, common BC coniferous trees, spacing/density/excess, and maximizing productivity.  You might even want to review the complete series again before the start of your second season.


Field Practice

It's time now for you to go to the field and start doing some hands-on practice.  Your instructor will walk you through the basic steps of planting once again, and you'll start to get a feel for the repetitive motions that are required to plant a tree properly, with acceptable quality.  Start slow.  Focus on getting it right, not getting fast.  For about a week to two weeks, planting is going to feel awkward.  You're going to look at experienced planters around you, and wonder how they can do it so quickly.  You're going to feel like a failure, because you can't keep up.  Don't worry, this is normal.  As you're getting started, just focus on planting each tree properly, and don't worry about your paycheque.  Once you get the basics down, your foreman will talk to you and start encouraging you to speed up, and will give you tips on where to shave a few seconds off every tree.  You'll probably want to quit at least once, or several times, but stick it out.  I promise, it gets easier.  If you can promise yourself that you won't quit for one calendar month, you WILL get over the hump and you'll get to the point where you're starting to make respectable wages, and you'll feel like planting is natural.  I won't go so far as to say that it'll become easy, because you'll always be pushing the limits, but it won't feel impossible.

During your first few weeks, keep careful records of your daily production, earnings, and portal-to-portal hours.  Remember, your company must top you up to minimum wage (including applicable overtime equivalents) on each paycheque in which you didn't earn the equivalent through your piece-rate tree prices.  If your company is short-changing you, continue to keep very detailed records all season.  Once the season is over, you can take advantage of help from the Employment Standards Branch to resolve any discrepancies, without having to worry about the risk of getting fired.

To get better, you need to practice.  The more trees you plant, the faster you get.  That seems to be a ridiculous statement, because it's so blatantly obvious, but your speed increases only as you reach more milestones.  Let me put it this way.  Let's say that by the time you plant fifteen thousand trees, you'll be able to plant fifteen hundred trees per day in easy ground.  That seems like a good goal.  So the trick is to plant your first fifteen thousand as quickly as possible, which gets you to that point of being a 1500-per-day planter.  This means that during your crucial first couple of weeks, you need to keep your head down and keep moving.  Don't give up and come back to the cache and sit for 45 minutes for lunch.  Grab a quick bite, and get right back to work.  The day doesn't pass any more quickly if you're sitting down, and it doesn't go any faster depending on whether you're happy or miserable.  You don't make any money when you're not planting.  If you're stuck out on the block for ten hours, you may as well be making money during that time, so don't stop working.

Have you heard of the 10,000 hour rule?  It was written by Malcolm Gladwell in a book called Outliers.  In it, he said that anyone who practiced 10,000 hours at a skill would essentially become a professional, and master that skill.  In an average long tree planting season in the BC Interior, a planter may work or "practice" for a thousand hours.  To clarify, I'm including some non-planting time in that total, but time spent after dinner or around a campfire discussing ways to improve your planting techniques can still lead to self-improvement.  So if we assume that the rough number of a thousand hours per season is valid, then you're looking at approximately ten years before you put in your 10,000 hours.  That's ten years before you become a tree planting "professional."

The learning curve for tree planting never really stops.  You might think at the end of your first season that you've learned it all.  You haven't.  You'll learn many more things in your second season.  The same will happen in your third, fourth, fifth, and sixth years, and beyond.  At the end of each of those seasons, you'll think you've finally mastered everything there is to know.  You haven't.  You'll continue to learn new tricks, and become more efficient, for your entire career.  It doesn't matter how many seasons you plant.  I've planted for more than twenty years, and I still work as a planter on the coast every spring and fall, and I still learn new tricks and techniques every season.


Career Options

Speaking of careers, some planters think that tree planting is a short-term career which might be useful for a few years, but in the long term, it's just a temporary position until you find work in a different field.  That's going to be true for some people.  However, if you're interested in forestry, there are many career choices available that can keep you working pretty much year-round.  There's work available in stand management, such as brushing and spacing a growing stand.  You can become an accredited silviculture surveyor.  You can do office work relating to Geographic Information Systems.  You can get into mapping, or timber cruising.  Explaining all of these jobs in depth would be a complex undertaking, but if you do some research on silviculture in Canada, you'll see that planting trees is just one small but important part of the entire cycle of reforestation.  If you're interested in moving on from planting into a different field, one good option is to talk to the owner of your company.  He or she can often provide some really good insights about how to pursue your long-term career goals, and I can think of many instances when a company owner has gone out of their way to help an established planter achieve career goals that may not even be directly related to planting.


Final Advice

Good luck with your planting.  Again, if you're a first time planter and you feel like quitting at any point during your first several weeks, remember a promise that you need to make to yourself.  No matter how frustrated you get, don't quit until you've worked for a full calendar month.  You've already invested too much time and money at this point for it to make sense for you to quit now.  After thirty days in the bush, you'll have gotten over the hump, and you'll realize that you CAN be successful as a planter.

Keep track of your numbers.  I don't just mean this on a day-to-day basis, to make sure that your paycheques are correct.  I also mean to pay attention to your daily averages, and your true earnings.  Understand what your expenses are in relation to the money that you earn.  Also, remember that you may someday want to know your annual planting totals, in case you end up chasing a long-term career goal such as hitting a million trees.

Keep track of some of your block locations.  You can do this by writing down block numbers, or by using apps on mobile devices that overlay GPS coordinates on top of photos.  Save them somewhere semi-permanent.  Someday, when you're a lot older, you may want to come back and look at the trees you planted in your first season.

For further research about tree planting in BC, go to Google and look for websites about tree planting.  There are several well-known sites out there that can be invaluable resources, and lots of online communities full of tree planters.

Thanks for participating …




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Here’s an Audio version of this material, in case you want to listen while you’re driving, running, at work, or otherwise unable to read or watch video:




Click on the down-arrow icon in the upper right corner of the SoundCloud widget to download the mp3.


Once again, for further information about this series of tree planter training information, visit:



I encourage you to share this information with anyone else who might be interested.  Thanks for your interest and support!

-          Jonathan “Scooter” Clark





Tree Planter Training 18 - Maximizing Productivity

Although this blog is predominantly focused on my music and DJ’ing career, I also want to share some information about my other career:  Canadian Reforestation.

The information in this post is part of a training series from the Replant.ca website.  More information can be found at this link:



I’ll put the text and audio download link from this training module below, but let’s start with the YouTube video for the module:




Section 18 - “Maximizing Productivity”

In this section, we'll give you some tips to maximize your productivity on the blocks.  Of course, you shouldn't worry about productivity and hitting big numbers until you get the basics down, namely planting acceptable quality and making it home safely for dinner each night.  We'll talk about efficient planting techniques, and efficient work strategies.  We'll also talk about how to stay organized, and how to stay focused.  In the end, it'll mean more money in the bank for you.


Maintaining a high level of Health and Safety is a requirement of good productivity.  If you're injured or sick, your productivity will decrease.  You might even miss some days of work, which cuts into your paycheque and leaves your crew short a planter.  Eat well, sleep well, and practice techniques that minimize the chance of musculoskeletal injuries.  Wear and use the right gear.  Understand typical planting risks and hazards and how to avoid them.  Remember that you have a legal responsibility to practice reasonably safe behavior.

While it's tempting to try to compete in productivity with the experienced planters, remember that they've already mastered their quality and know how to keep themselves and those around them safe.  Once you become competent in terms of safety and quality, productivity will start to rise naturally, and your foreman will feel comfortable with giving you tips to reach higher daily numbers.


Staying Organized

Never underestimate the effect that being organized can have on your productivity and earnings.  Don't be lazy - be organized.  As a planter, making sure you're informed and ready to go at the beginning of each day makes a big difference to how productive you are.

Here are some helpful ways to stay on top of your organization:
- Remember this phrase:  "Boots, bags, shovel, water, lunch."  Every morning, before you get into the truck, do a visual inspection to make sure you have all five of these items.
- Always fill your water jug at night.  It helps you avoid a lineup, and on cold camp mornings, the water lines might be frozen, so you might be out of luck.
- Repair or replace any worn or torn gear as soon as you notice it.  Don't wait until the end of the shift to do something that you could do this evening.
- Know the weather forecast and potential site conditions for the next day, so you can organize any clothing or special gear in the evening.  Don't leave it for morning.
- Know the contract specs.  If you don't, or if you forget, ask your foreman.
- Know what to do in an emergency.  Run through scenarios in your head.  Know where to find emergency contact information, and how to work things like VHF radios and satellite phones.  Always know what radio channel to use to call for help.  Assume that your foreman, the person who is normally in charge, is the one who is hurt and unconscious.  Your foreman should verbally test you once in a while on a drive home from the block, by giving a potential disaster scenario and asking you to walk through all the steps that need to be taken in that situation.
- Keep track of your tallies every day.  Write them down in a diary along with information such as prices, block numbers, who you were working with, what the weather was like, and any other notable information that can help jog your memory about things that happened that day.


Efficient Planting Techniques

Highballers move fluidly through the block, always positioning themselves correctly to complete the next anticipated task, and seldom doing only one thing at a time.  They know how to move through the land and plant with minimal strain on their bodies, and minimal energy wasted.

Planting has many steps:  bagging up, looking for naturals, looking for a good microsite, moving to it, screefing (if needed), driving the shovel into the ground, opening the hole, inserting a seedling, closing the hole, flagging (if needed), looking for trees, and doing it all over, again and again and again.  Each of these steps takes time.  You're capable of trimming a bit of time off each of these steps, sometimes by combining a couple of tasks together.  Even just a second or two saved each time that you plant a tree adds up if you repeat something a hundred thousand times in a summer.

Here are some techniques to help you maximize your productivity:
- Always plan ahead.  Be looking for the spot for your next tree as soon as your current tree is in the ground.  Eventually, you'll get to a point where you're skilled enough to always be planning out the next two or three trees ahead of you.
- Learn to plant ambidextrously.  Sometimes, the best microsite is in a spot which is awkward to deal with in your normal planting stance, but if you're able to quickly reverse your shovel hand, you might find that spot easier to deal with.  If I had to give one single piece of planting advice to new planters, it would be to learn to plant ambi.
- Sometimes, being lazy is not a bad thing.  If you pick a microsite that's easy to plant in and still meets requirements, that's smarter than putting more effort into a more difficult microsite.  I guess that rather than saying it's good to be lazy, I should say that it's smart to be efficient.  In both situations, the goal is to conserve energy.
- Use the spacing tolerance to your advantage.  Don't aim for perfect spacing.  Aim for perfect AVERAGE spacing, but be willing to fluctuate by a foot or so to find the best spots.
- Practice movements and approaches that conserve energy.  Don't bend over twice for one tree.
- Always think of ways to multi-task, such as grabbing a seedling while you're in the process of walking to the next spot.
- Always plant the back of your piece first, but don't dead-walk in to start at the back!  Plant your way in.
- Learn about piece management techniques to make your approach to planting more efficient, and to minimize inefficient things like dead-walking.


Efficient Work Strategies

Get an early start.  Being organized and prepared really helps you.  A strong morning start is psychologically powerful.  You'll feel good about your production right from the start, instead of trying to psych yourself up to catch up to where you thought you should have been.  The afternoon heat and fatigue will slow you down, so the morning plant is really important in achieving high production.

Area planting involves the proper spacing of trees on one small portion of your assigned piece at a time.  This approach works best for fragmented pieces or blocks where there's an abundance of slash, rock outcrops, large stumps, or other obstacles, since you can choose the most efficient path from tree to tree within your small area.  Note where you are and what you have covered, then, after you've planted that area, mentally mark off another small patch to plant, with full coverage in mind.

Line planting is straightforward and requires less thought than area planting.  As a first-year planter, this is the approach that you should take while you're learning to plant.  It's best suited to clear ground and open areas.  Don't automatically think that because you hear vets talking about area planting, that line planting is not always efficient.  In clear, straightforward ground, line planting is usually more efficient than area planting.  Area planting really only becomes quite useful when you're on difficult blocks with lots of slash.  Of course, as a first-year planter, you'll think that all your blocks are difficult, but chances are high that you'll be working on fairly simple ground when you're a rookie.

Try to keep a steady pace.  If you take numerous very short breaks of a minute or so during the day, to allow yourself to catch your breath or take a small drink of water, it's much better than taking one extended break.  This is especially important on cold days, because moving around keeps you warm.  A long break, or eating a lot of food at once, tends to make you feel sluggish.  Many planters use their bagging-up time as their break, and may not even stop to eat, either pacing around as they grab a quick sandwich, or eating while they're bagging up.

If you're a new planter, or just new to a contract or different block, encourage prompt feedback from your foreman or checker.  The sooner you're aware of any adjustments required to meet the quality standards, the less risk there is of a significant number of planting faults, and the faster you'll be able to establish a productive planting rhythm with confidence.

Bagging up should be done efficiently, as a lot of time can be wasted here.  Save the socializing for camp.  Make sure you have the appropriate mix of species in your bag.  Eat or drink while you bag up.


Staying Focused

Some planters find that a certain relaxed mental attitude is helpful in maintaining efficiency on the job.  They see planting as a type of meditation, and they do what's called "zoning out."  Some people find that repetitive thoughts, like a song that's stuck in your head, or counting, can help you keep focused.  Other planters strive to actively maintain a strong focus on the task at hand, and try to avoid letting themselves get distracted by anything other than the trees that need to be planted.  Although you don't necessarily have to have such an intense focus, what you don't want is for your mind to wander aimlessly and have your movements follow suit.  You need to be constantly aware of your surroundings, of the other trees and obstacles around you, where you'll put your shovel next, and how to be as efficient as possible.  Ideally, you're thinking about the next spot or next few spots to be planted.  This helps you cover the ground needed, without working yourself into a corner that requires back-tracking.  Back-tracking is a waste of time.  Dead-walking is a waste of time.

Productive planters are not only moving quickly, they're also incredibly aware of their surroundings.  They make numerous decisions, in fractions of a second, to make the most of the time taken while moving between planting spots.  They use ribbon, natural boundaries, and terrain, to keep track of areas that haven't been planted yet.  They avoid areas that have already been planted.


Even the most optimistic of planters will sometimes have a bad day, where it's almost impossible to self-motivate yourself.  On a day like that, even if you don't feel like planting, you'll have to learn to force yourself to keep working.  No matter how slow you're planting, it's faster than sitting at the cache.  You may as well face the fact that no matter how miserable you are, you're going to be stuck on the block for ten hours.  You may as well make some money while you're there.




-----


Here’s an Audio version of this material, in case you want to listen while you’re driving, running, at work, or otherwise unable to read or watch video:




Click on the down-arrow icon in the upper right corner of the SoundCloud widget to download the mp3.


Once again, for further information about this series of tree planter training information, visit:



I encourage you to share this information with anyone else who might be interested.  Thanks for your interest and support!

-          Jonathan “Scooter” Clark





Tree Planter Training 16 - Spacing, Density, and Excess

Although this blog is predominantly focused on my music and DJ’ing career, I also want to share some information about my other career:  Canadian Reforestation.

The information in this post is part of a training series from the Replant.ca website.  More information can be found at this link:



I’ll put the text and audio download link from this training module below, but let’s start with the YouTube video for the module:




Section 16 - “Spacing, Density, and Excess”

In this section we'll talk about Spacing, Density, and Excess.  We'll learn how these things are measured, and we'll understand why targets are set in silviculture prescriptions.  We'll talk about compliance systems, and how, as a planter, you can leverage an understanding of these systems into increased productivity and higher earnings.  If you have a proper understanding of what you can and can't get away with, with respect to spacing and density, your job will become a lot easier.


What's In A Plot?

When a forester takes a plot, he or she is not just checking the quality of the trees.  There's a lot of additional information gathered.  In rough terms, the information collected in each plot includes:
1.  The number of trees planted in the plot.
2.  The number of plantable spots.
3.  The number of excess trees.
4.  The number of satisfactorily planted trees.
5.  The number of unsatisfactorily planted trees, and reasons why they were unsatisfactory (this is the quality assessment part of the plot).
6.  Any other comments about the plot in general.

As you can see, most of these measurements are not even directly concerned with quality!


Plotted versus Planted Density

Density is a very important measurement that tells you the approximate number of trees per area on a block or a part of a block.  Since we usually use the metric system, it's usually described as the number of seedlings, or “stems” per hectare.  A hectare is 100m by 100m in size, or 10,000 square meters, and of course, it doesn't have to be a square. Earlier, I mentioned the fact that a plot within the 704 system is equal to 1/200th of a hectare.  Because of this, if you know that you have a number of plots that average 8 trees each, and a plot is 1/200th of a hectare, then when you multiply the two numbers out, you'll realize that you have approximately 1600 trees per hectare.  This density, which is determined by multiplying the average number of trees counted per plot by 200, is usually called the “plotted density.” Sometimes it's called the “plot density” or "sample density" or “statistical density” of the block.

There's another way to arrive at a slightly different density calculation:  you can take the total number of trees that were actually planted on a block and divide it by the number of hectares.  For instance, if you have a block on which you've planted 15,000 trees, and the size of the block is 10.0 hectares, then you have a density of 1500 trees per hectare.  This density, calculated from the claimed planting totals, is usually called the “planted density.” It may also be referred to as the “claimed density” or “theoretical density.”  Of course, if the planters made a mistake in their tallies, this number won't quite be correct.

It's important to understand right now that there's a significant distinction between the plotted density, which is a statistical measurement, and the planted density, which is the true density (if the planting totals are correct).  Although each density is a measure of the number of trees per area of block, and although each may be accurate by itself, the two types of density measure slightly different items.  It's possible for the plotted density be different than the planted density, and yet for each number to be “correct.”  A correct plotted density merely refers to a plotted density that is calculated correctly.  It doesn't mean that the plotted density accurately reflects the true planted density of seedlings on the block.  If you truly understand the distinction between plotted and planted densities, that distinction will form the basis for starting to understand a lot of other nuances of most quality systems.  Understanding this distinction also helps you start to learn some advanced density management issues, including issues as varied as manipulating the system to improve your quality results as a planter, and for management, investigating the likelihood that planters are stashing trees.

Some planters, especially beginning planters, will focus entirely on their planting quality, and pay very little attention to the planting densities that they achieve.  This is possibly one of the biggest mistakes that a beginning planter can make.  I simply can't over-emphasize the importance that density will play in your planting career.  Look at it this way:  making a quality mistake is not “irrevocable.”  Planting a tree poorly, so it's considered a fault tree, will unquestionably reduce its chances for long-term survival.  Even if it does survive, the tree may not achieve its maximum potential growth.  However, a tree CAN recover from many types of quality faults.  A quality fault simply means that the odds are stacked a bit higher against the tree.  A tree in a dry area may not grow well until it gets heavy rains.  A tree in a poor microsite may not grow as fast as one in a better microsite.  A tree with non-vertical or “J” roots may not establish a strong root system as quickly as it could have.  A leaning tree may take some time to straighten up.  Despite all this, a tree can often recover from a quality fault.

With density problems, the story is different.  Once a tree is planted in a particular microsite, it can never move.  Quality faults, if they don't kill the tree, may only be temporary setbacks in the total life of the tree.  But trees can't move by themselves, so density problems are permanent.  The vast majority of foresters are very intelligent, and any forester with any common sense recognizes the importance of density, and will be far more tolerant of a few minor quality issues than they will be of density issues.  

Another thing to consider is that most common quality systems are designed so that when a planter's density starts to get really out of line, it also starts to have a negative effect on your quality percentage.  For instance, under the FS 704 system, planting low density will eventually result in missed spots, which is an automatic quality fault.  Under the same system, planting high density will usually result in an excess fine, which again is not good.


Target Spacing & Minimum Spacing

Ok, now that you understand the basics of density, I'm going to explain two new issues:  target spacing, and minimum spacing.  Sometimes, target spacing is called the "contract" spacing.  On any given contract, a forester will have come up with an assessment of how many trees they want planted in an area.  If the area is rich and non-competitive and the trees are expected to do well, a “low” density of 1200 stems/Ha may be a good goal.  In areas with poor soil, or high competition from existing vegetation, a higher density of 2400 stems/Ha may be a better goal.  On some contracts, the density that the forester wants to see may not be a single number for the entire contract, but may vary from block to block, or may even vary from section to section within a block.  No matter what the desired density is, it's very difficult for a forester to get good results by telling a planter to go out and, “plant about 2000 trees per hectare.”  This instruction is too vague, unless you understand how to apply that number to the immediate area that you're currently planting in.  Even after all the years that I've spent planting, I can't tell you exactly how big a hectare is at a glance, nor could I do a very good job of just guessing how far apart the individual trees need to be in order to fit exactly 2,000 trees into a hectare.  I need a more tangible and achievable immediate measure to aim for.

Depending on the target density, it's fairly easy to use a chart to determine what the average inter-tree spacing needs to be to achieve the desired density.  Once you have a tangible inter-tree distance to aim for, you have a realistic chance of meeting the forester's goals for density.  For example, if every tree were 2.4 meters away from every other tree in a perfect grid, the resulting density would be 2000 stems/Ha.  If every tree were 2.7 meters apart in a perfect grid, the resulting density would be 1600 stems/Ha.  Your foreman can tell you the average spacing that will result in the target density that the forester is looking for.  Foremen and supervisors have charts to help us know what our target spacing needs to be.  Let me show you a couple of common numbers right now:

2000 stems/Ha = 10 trees per plot = 2.4m average between trees
1800 stems/Ha =   9 trees per plot = 2.5m average between trees
1600 stems/Ha =   8 trees per plot = 2.7m average between trees
1400 stems/Ha =   7 trees per plot = 2.9m average between trees
1200 stems/Ha =   6 trees per plot = 3.1m average between trees
1000 stems/Ha =   5 trees per plot = 3.4m average between trees
 800 stems/Ha =   4 trees per plot = 3.8m average between trees

For a first year planter in the northern BC Interior, you're probably not going to see low density numbers very often.  Those are typically target densities for coastal contracts.  A planting density of 1200 stems/Ha or less is quite rare in the Interior.  Trees are much less expensive to plant in the Interior than on the coast, so foresters there prefer to aim for higher densities, to maximize the chance of meeting Free Growing survey requirements.  In the Interior, you're most likely to see target densities of 1400 stems/Ha and above, and sometimes as high as 2400 stems/Ha in pine plantations.

Of course, when you're planting a block, the trees are not going to end up in a perfect grid.  Nor would you want to try to plant them in a perfect grid, because to get it exactly right would mean having a tape measure and measuring the distance between each tree.  That would slow you down, and you'd plant less, which means that you'd make less money.  The great thing is that your trees don't need to be exactly the same distance apart every time.  If some are closer to each other, and some are further away from each other, you can still get the right overall density by making sure that ON AVERAGE, the trees are the proper target distance from each other.  So to make your life easy, think of the “target spacing” as the optimum average distance between trees that is required for you to hit the correct overall density.  You can plant some closer together, and some further apart, as long as the average is correct.

There are two benefits to being allowed to vary your distance between trees.  The first is a benefit for the trees.  Since you have a variance, you can select the best microsites for the trees.  The forester wants you to put the trees in the best microsites, to maximize the long-term crop yield on the plantation, so it's in his or her best interests to allow you this variance in spacing.  The second benefit is for the planter, and it's a very obvious one.  If you're allowed some leeway in picking and choosing the spots to put your trees, you can select the easiest spots to plant each tree.  You want to find the easy spots to plant in.  As much as being successful at tree planting means a lot of hard work, you shouldn't be doing unnecessary work.

Of course, there are limits on how much variance you're allowed.  That's where the minimum spacing comes into play.  You won't be allowed to plant two trees closer together than the minimum spacing, or one of them will be faulted.  So for instance, if you have a contract or block where the target spacing is 2.7 meters and the minimum is 2.1 meters, then you'll want to plant your trees about 2.7 meters apart on average, with no two trees ever being closer than 2.1 meters together.

Many planters at this point will ask an intelligent question:  “If there's a minimum spacing, is there also a maximum spacing?”  There isn't, at least, not exactly.  Instead, there's a different measurement which effectively mimics the effect of having some sort of maximum spacing.  It depends on the quality system you're working under, but it usually relates to having a “missed spot” rather than “wide spacing.”  I'll explain that in more detail in a few minutes.

When it comes to density, you need to learn pretty quickly to get it right the first time.  Density problems cannot be “fixed” by replanting, unless you pull every tree up from an area and start again, which is unthinkable.  It only takes a minute or so for a planter to quickly throw a plot on himself or herself, and to count the number of trees in the plot.  If you want to be a good planter, or if you already consider yourself to be a good planter, you're only fooling yourself if you think that you don't need to throw plots on yourself to check your density throughout the day.  I personally recommend that all planters take at least four quick plots on themselves every day.  I do it.  In the long term, it's worth my while.


Excess

Many planters find the concept of density to be fairly easy to grasp, but they have much more difficulty with excess.  Some planters mistakenly think that the two are the same thing, and that high density is the same as excess.  However, this is another area where understanding the fine distinction between the two concepts will help a good planter become a great planter.  High density and excess are somewhat similar.  But high density happens when you have too many trees planted throughout the block consistently.  Excess happens when you have too many trees through just some parts of the block, specifically where the plots land.  For the mathematicians out there, let me give you a better definition:  excess penalizes you if you have a high standard deviation.

The easiest way to explain the difference between excess and high density is probably with a very simple mathematical example.  First, let me explain how excess is calculated.  In most systems, each plot on a block is considered individually.  If the plot that you're looking at has more planted trees than the target density, then each "extra” tree above the target density will be considered to be an “excess” tree.  Once the forester knows how many excess trees there are in total in the series of plots, that number is divided by the total number of planted trees in the set of plots to come up with the excess percentage.  Let's look at an example:

- First, assume that the target density is 2000 stems/Ha.  This means that if you divide by 200, because a plot is 1/200th of a hectare, you should be hoping to get a total of exactly ten trees in each plot.
- Let's assume that we have two blocks.  Each is two hectares, and to keep things simple, we'll say that each block needs two plots.  Under the FS 704 system, a block that small actually needs a minimum of five plots, but we're going to ignore that rule for this example.  Two plots per block.
- On block “A” we get 10 trees in the first plot and 10 trees in the second plot.
- On block “B” we get 8 trees in the first plot and 12 trees in the second plot.
- Let's assume that we've been told that 4000 trees were planted in block “A” and 4000 trees were also planted in block “B.”
- Although it isn't important to this example, I'm going to tell you that the trees in block A were planted with fairly even spacing, hence the reason that each of the two plots got 10 trees, while the spacing on block B was a lot more varied, with some sections having closer or “tighter” spacing than other parts of the block.

Block “A” Calculations:
- The total number of trees in the plots is 20.  There are two plots.  Therefore, there's an average of 10.0 trees per plot.  Multiply this by 200 and you get a plotted density of 2000 stems/Ha.
- The total number of excess trees in the plots is 0.  The first plot had 10 trees, and you don't get an excess tree until you go “one tree over” the target.  Therefore, that plot did not have an excess tree.  The second plot was exactly the same:  no excess trees.  Therefore, the total excess for the block is 0 trees out of 20 trees planted, or 0.0%.

Block “B” Calculations:
- The total number of trees in the plots is 20.  There are two plots.  Therefore, there's an average of 10.0 trees per plot.  Again, multiply this by 200 and you get a plotted density of 2000 stems/Ha.
- The first plot had 8 trees, so there are no excess trees in that plot.  However, the second plot had 12 trees, which is two trees higher than the target number of trees per plot, or two excess trees.
- With no excess in the first plot, and two excess trees in the second plot, the total excess for the block is 2 trees.  You then divide that number by the total trees planted, which was twenty, and you get an excess percentage of 10.0%.

Hopefully this numerical example starts to illustrate the concept.  The planted density on each of the two blocks is exactly the same, because each had 4000 trees planted over 2.0 hectares, or 2000 stems/Ha.  The plotted density on each of the two blocks is exactly the same, because each block had 20 trees total between the two plots, or 10.0 trees per plot, which when multiplied by 200 gives you 2000 stems/Ha.

By the way, in this particular example, the planted density is exactly equal to the plotted density.  Remember that it doesn't always turn out this way, depending on where the plots fall and how many trees are in each plot.  In fact, it's most common for these two numbers to be different, although they are usually quite close to each other.

Even though the plotted density of both blocks is the same, and the planted density is also the same on each block, the excess on each block is NOT the same.  The first block was planted with very consistent spacing, and did not end up having any excess trees.  The second block had inconsistent spacing, and ended up getting a few excess trees in the plots, resulting in an excess percentage of 10.0%.

Under the FS 704 system, a company is not penalized for excess charges on a block if the overall excess percentage is less than 7%.  In other words, you can have a small amount of excess and not get penalized for it.  This is fair, because even the best planters will be forced to deal with a small amount of variety in their spacing.  And to be honest, the foresters are ok with a bit of variance in your spacing too, because they want to see you looking for the best spots for the trees.


Missed Spot – A Quality Fault

Earlier we learned that wide spacing is not necessarily a quality fault.  This is especially true if the spacing is consistently just a bit wider than the target spacing.  Wide spacing only becomes a problem when it gets to be too extreme.  There's a point when your spacing between two trees becomes so wide that you could have fit another tree in without it being too close to either of the other trees.  At that point, it's considered to be a missed spot rather than just wide spacing.  This is equivalent to a fault on the plot sheet.  There's no specific code for this.  You'll still get penalized though, because you don't have enough "satisfactorily planted trees" to match the number of "plantable spots."  These are two terms that we'll look at later.

Basically, let's take a quick example where the target spacing is 2.7m and the minimum spacing is 2.0m.  To keep things simple, let's work in just one dimension, ie. going in a straight line, although of course on the block you also have to think of trees beside you, not just the ones ahead and behind.  Let's assume that as you're planting along in a line, you plant two trees that are 3.8m apart.  This is wider than the target spacing of 2.7m.  But wide spacing is not a fault.

Now let's try to figure out if we have a missed spot.  Let's see if we can stick an extra tree between the two trees.  We'll put it in the exact center of those two trees, so the new tree is as far as possible away from the original two trees.  Since they were 3.8m apart, the tree in the exact middle will be 1.9m away from each of the other two.  That's under the minimum spacing of 2.0m.  In other words, it's not possible to legally put another tree between your first two trees without it being closer to an existing tree than permitted.  If you can't legally add that tree, it's not a missed spot.  The spacing is just wide spacing, no penalty.

Let's look at a second example, where you plant two trees that are 4.8m apart.  That's really quite wide, if the target is only 2.7m.  Once again, let's try to put a tree between the first two.  If you put it exactly in the middle, then the new tree is 2.4m away from each of the other two.  This is above the minimum.  In fact, it's pretty close to the proper target spacing.  Since another tree can legally be added in the middle without causing Minimum Spacing problems, you'll be considered to have a Missed Spot.  There should have been a tree between the original two trees, so you're faulted.

Of course, in considering whether or not you have a missed spot, the forester also looks at other factors.  Is the spot that was missed good enough to allow for a tree to be planted properly?  If not, say for example there was a huge puddle right there, then the forester will not penalize you for missing the spot.  The rationale in this example is that you skipped the spot because you had no choice, so you shouldn't be penalized.


Penalties

So overall, there are three different ways that you can be penalized for planting either too many trees or not enough trees in an area:
- Missed Spots
- Excess
- Low Density

Missed spots come into play when your spacing is wide and erratic, because you'll end up leaving gaps that should have had trees.  For a planter, that's not good.  If you walk over a spot where you should have planted a tree, you just missed out on an opportunity to make a bit of money.  You don't get paid to walk around.

Excess comes into play when your spacing is erratic, and you put too many trees into a small area that a plot lands in.  Now to be honest, it's usually good for planters to have slightly higher density than the target, and if a little bit of excess is the result, that's fine.  As long as your crew's excess on the block is under 7%, your company isn't penalized.

Low density isn't something that I've mentioned yet.  I did say that wide spacing wasn't a quality fault.  But because foresters want to see a sufficient number of trees in their blocks, they often add a clause to the contract that gives a minimum acceptable density tied to payment.  This is often a number like 200 stems/Ha under the target density, or alternatively, it could be a percentage amount such as ten percent under.  So for example, a contract might say that the target density on a block is 1800 stems/Ha, but if the final density is under by more than 10%, or less than 1620 stems/Ha, there is no payment.  If your crew does end up planting less than 1620 stems/Ha, there's a simple solution:  you'll be sent back to add some more trees, until the density is brought up over the minimum.

If you have a smart foreman, he or she will probably do a quick calculation as soon as the block is done to see what the planted density is.  If it's low, say around 1590 stems/Ha or slightly lower, that will indicate that the block is likely going to be a problem, because the plotted density will probably be very similar.  In that case, it would be smart for the foreman to tell the crew to go back out and put in a few more trees as a precautionary measure.  It's easier to add more trees to a block when you're already there, instead of coming back later.  And if your planted density for the block is obviously low, it's smart to just fix the problem before the plots are even taken.

Is there a High Density penalty?  Not really.  Foresters get you on the excess charge, so they don't worry about it.  Many foresters are Ok with you planting slightly higher density than the target, as long as it's consistent.  They just don't like inconsistent high density, which is why the excess calculation meets their needs as a way of making sure you don't plant far more trees in an area than you're supposed to.  And even density that is perfectly consistent can still give you an excess charge if the density starts to get too high.


I'm sure that at this point, many of you are sitting there with your eyes glazed over, completely lost.  That's understandable.  This is the sort of material that you should revisit a couple times per season for your first couple years, until you fully understand the math behind everything.

To be honest, what we've just covered here is barely scratching the surface of a proper understanding of spacing and density management considerations.  For a first-year planter though, it's enough to get you started.  The key take-away lesson here is that you need to get your density right, and in order to do that, you need to make sure your spacing between trees is accurate and consistent.  Instead of using a measuring tape to measure between each tree, throwing a plot on yourself is a quick way of seeing if you're on the right track.  Even if you don't check the quality of each tree in your plot thoroughly, a quick density plot can be thrown in less than a minute.  If you have the right number of trees in your plot, you'll feel more confident in proceeding at full steam ahead.

Your instructor and your foreman will throw some plots with you, to make sure you completely understand how to take plots quickly and accurately.  Taking a quick plot will ultimately save you time, rather than just costing you a minute or two, because it'll let you know if your density is on track.




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Here’s an Audio version of this material, in case you want to listen while you’re driving, running, at work, or otherwise unable to read or watch video:




Click on the down-arrow icon in the upper right corner of the SoundCloud widget to download the mp3.


Once again, for further information about this series of tree planter training information, visit:



I encourage you to share this information with anyone else who might be interested.  Thanks for your interest and support!

-          Jonathan “Scooter” Clark





Tree Planter Training 12 - Planning Reforestation Activities

Although this blog is predominantly focused on my music and DJ’ing career, I also want to share some information about my other career:  Canadian Reforestation.

The information in this post is part of a training series from the Replant.ca website.  More information can be found at this link:



I’ll put the text and audio download link from this training module below, but let’s start with the YouTube video for the module:




Section 12 - “The Planting Prescription”

In this section, we're going to learn some information that you'll hear which relates to the Planting Prescription.  You may never see a prescription on paper, but the forester will give you certain information, either directly or through your crew foreman, which guides your planting style by clarifying certain specifications.  Most of this information will be given to you at a meeting that's called a pre-work conference, and then you'll get additional feedback on the blocks as various people are checking the quality of your planted trees.


The Pre-Work Conference

At the start of a contract, the planters need to be told exactly what requirements and preferences are in effect for the current contract.  These requirements and preferences are usually referred to as the specs, which is short for specifications.  The forester will often hold a pre-work conference with the crew to outline the specs.  In some cases, the foresters prefer not to try to communicate this information with such a large group of people at one time, so instead they'll have a pre-contract meeting with the staff and management of the company, to go over the specs in detail with the camp supervisor, the foremen, and the quality checkers or tree runners.  The staff are then expected to have a subsequent meeting with the planters to pass on this information, and to ensure compliance with the client's expectations.  Part of your job as a planter is to pay attention to the planting requirements, and understand what is being asked of you.


The Silviculture Prescription & the Planting Prescription

The silviculture prescription and the planting prescription are not the same thing.  They are two separate site-specific plans.  The silviculture prescription is an overall document that describes the forest management objectives for an area.  It also covers the methods for harvesting the existing stand.  If you do a google search for "silviculture prescription guidebook bc" you'll find a detailed document produced by the Ministry of Forests, Lands and Natural Resource Operations, showing exactly what is included in a comprehensive Silviculture Prescription document.

The planting prescription is a specific part of the overall silviculture prescription plan that focuses on just the planting specs.  Some of the specs in this plan will relate to things such as screefing, obstacle planting, specific microsite requirements, density specs, quality specs, fertilization, browse protection, and more.  Let's look at these in more detail.

Screefing involves using your shovel or boot to remove unwanted surface material from the planting location.  Your instructor and your foremen will both demonstrate different ways to do this, and will monitor your screefing techniques to make sure you can get the minimum amount of work done quickly and efficiently with minimum risk of long-term damage to your body.  In general, boot screefing is faster and easier on your body.  Shovel screefing is harder on the arms and shoulders, but does a better job.  In tough grass mat, shovel screefing may be your only option.  Screefing is not required on all contracts, and the size and depth of screefing requirements can also vary.

Obstacle Planting involves making use of stumps, slash, or other obstacles to protect seedlings from damage from things like cattle or snow.

Microsite Selection is important to maximize the potential growth of a seedling.  You'll be expected to select microsites that minimize the impact of limiting factors and maximize seedling establishment and growth.  For example, in some regions, you might be asked to plant trees in the bottom of trenches, in order to take advantage of moisture in drought-prone areas.  In other regions, you might be asked to plant trees at the hinge or higher in trenches, to take advantage of higher temperatures.

Density Specifications vary from contract to contract, and sometimes from block to block.  For example, a forester might say that the spruce trees in one area have exhibited slightly higher mortality than pine in the past couple of years, so you might be told to plant spruce sections at a density of 1800 stems/Ha and pine sections at a density of 1600 stems/Ha.  We'll talk about Density in much more detail in another section.

Quality Specifications also vary significantly from contract to contract, although quality expectations are generally very consistent on all blocks within a single contract.  There's a common quality assessment system called the FS 704 system, which is in common use throughout much of British Columbia.  Within that system, there can be variations.  For example, on one contract, a forester may say that he/she would prefer to see all trees slightly deep, with pine trees a maximum of two fingers of dirt above the plug, and spruce trees even deeper with a maximum of four fingers of dirt above the plug.  We'll talk about Quality in much more detail in another section.


Potential Non-Planting Components

Some seedlings are fertilized at the time of planting by having a "tea bag" package full of fertilizer buried in the ground a few inches away from the seedling.  This happens especially where soil nutrients are limiting, or in areas where the cost to establish a seedling is so high that every possible growth advantage is worth the expense involved in providing the advantage.  Trees are not commonly fertilized in northern BC, but it happens more frequently in the southern Interior, and it's very common on the coast.  The best place for a tea-bag is usually about three inches from the seedling, ie. on the other side of the shovel hole, and buried just barely below the surface.  You cannot let the tea-bag drop down into the shovel hole.  You get paid extra for having to fertilize each tree.  First-year planters don't typically work on jobs where fertilizing is necessary.  Tea-bags are often called ferts.

Browse Protection involves putting up structures or equipment to protect planted seedlings from being eaten by animals.  Certain species, especially pine and cedar, are an appetizing snack for certain animals like deer and elk, and sometimes rabbits.  Planters may be asked to put up three or four foot high "cones" over a freshly planted tree, which are then attached to a stake driven into the ground beside the tree to hold them in place.  These cones are left in place for a few years until the tree has grown to the point where it's not very susceptible to damage anymore.  Coning isn't a common activity for first-year planters to be involved in, since it's most commonly done on the coast, or on technically challenging ground in the Southern Interior.  In those locations, the cost of planting a tree is so high that it's worthwhile to invest extra money in protecting the seedlings.  In the northern Interior, it's easier just to plant a higher density of trees and assume that a few will get eaten.


Block Boundaries

For a first-year planter, knowing where the planting area ends and the forest begins is sometimes rather difficult.  The exact boundaries can be pretty vague.  There won't be a fence or markers to guide you.  The boundary will almost never be a straight line.  It'll curve in and out, and you may have to interpret vague clues to determine if you've reached the end of the block yet.

There are problems if you can't identify the block boundary properly.  If you leave holes within a planting area, it increases the licensee's risk of non-compliance.  If you plant outside of the unit boundaries, where there's no responsibility and perhaps no permission to plant, you'll waste energy and money.  This is called a trespass.  This may have a negative impact on your company's reputation, and can sometimes lead to a fine for your company.

Your foreman or the forester will try to show you where the boundaries are located.  Pay close attention.  Often, there may be some sporadic symbols or markings to help guide the planters, such as old ribbon, paint, or rigid aluminum tags.  In some cases, the edges of the blocks are extremely clear and obvious, and planters don't need help trying to figure out where the block boundary is located.  In other cases, a forester will take the time to hang flagging tape every twenty feet or so, to help guide the planters.

Block boundaries often follow natural features such as roads, timber edges, and creeks.  Sometimes there's an adjacent piece that has also been cut but which is a different block, and it's very difficult to figure out the boundary.  In those cases, it's expected that someone should put up a flag line of ribbon to help the planters stay inside the correct boundaries.  Your foreman should have good map-reading skills, and will probably be using a GPS or a geo-referenced map on a mobile device, to help ensure that the crew understands the block boundaries.


Mixing Species

Species mixes are common as they provide diversity and some protection from environmental concerns including global warming.  They also help to protect against many forest health concerns including root rots, mistletoes, rusts, and beetles.  You'll need to bag up with the appropriate species mix and know the best microsites for each individual species.  For example, in wetter sites, spruce is more suitable than Douglas fir.

Professional planters with many years of experience doing coastal planting are often faced with very complex and challenging species mixes on their pieces.  Every planter's piece can also be slightly different on the coast.  For example, one coastal piece might require something like this:

"40% western red cedar, 30% western hemlock, 25% Douglas fir, and 5% Sitka spruce.  The cedar must be the only species present in salal patches.  The hemlock can be planted in pure organics, and can be mixed with cedar in mineral/organic areas.  The Douglas fir can only be planted in areas of pure mineral soil, and only on the upper two-third of the piece.  The spruce should be spread evenly throughout the lowest 20 meters of the piece in a mix with the cedar."

When you're given specs like this, it can be pretty confusing.  However, a first-year planter in the Interior won't be faced with any prescriptions that are even remotely as complex as the example that I just gave.  You'll probably be planting monocultures more often than not.  A mix of pine and spruce is also fairly common, but at least that's only two species.  Planting three species simultaneously would be relatively rare in northern BC.

When you have to plant a mix of pine and spruce, there will be two approaches.  One is a percentage mix, and the other is a targeted mix.  Even with a targeted mix your final result will still probably need to consist of specific percentages, but the difference in general is that a percentage mix is mixed consistently overall, whereas a targeted mix varies depending on which part of your piece you're planting at the moment.  Let's go into more detail, because this is confusing.  In these examples, I'm going to use a prescription for the block of 75% pine and 25% spruce.  Furthermore, I'm going to say that for some reason, your specific piece actually has to meet those same requirements exactly.

In the Percentage Mix, you will need to plant 75% pine and 25% spruce everywhere in your piece.  Let's say that your target density is eight trees per plot.  I'll explain this in more detail in the section about density.  Since 75% of eight trees is six, and 25% of eight trees is two, all of your plots should have six pine trees and two spruce trees each.  The forester expects to see both species in every part of your piece, consistently, no matter where he/she walks.  If you have a plot with five spruce and three pine, the forester will frown, because your ratio is incorrect.  You can't get away with broad mixes, which is what would happen if you planted three boxes of straight pine on one side of the piece then planted a box of straight spruce on the other side.  It needs to be mixed up on a really micro level.  This type of approach is very common on blocks where the ground is homogenous and consistent, no matter where you are on the block.

In the Targeted Mix, the expectation is that your piece will have different types of microsites, and the forester will want you to prioritize the correct species for each individual microsite.  So for example, if you have several gullies or low draws or swampy areas in your piece, you'll be expected to put spruce trees into all those areas.  The pine will go everywhere else.  Quite often, you'll still have to try to respect the overall mix, because that's how many trees got ordered.  If 10% of the piece is wet and should definitely take spruce, and 10% is dry and should definitely take pine, and the other 80% could take either species, you'll want to put straight spruce into the wet areas, straight pine in the dry areas, and the rest of your piece that can handle either species will get a mix containing the other 15% of the spruce and the other 65% of the pine.

On your first run, you might not know what you'll find, so you might take three quarters pine in your bags and one quarter spruce, and just pull out the proper trees as you go, depending on what you encounter.  But you might discover on that first run that the entire right side of your piece is a swamp.  So you might decide to take 100% spruce with you on your second and third runs, and get the swamp finished up first, so you're left with straight pine in drier ground for the rest of your bag-ups for the rest of the day.  You might also decide to spread the pain out throughout the day, so you take mostly pine and a bit of spruce on each run, and just chip away at a bit of the swamp during each bag-up.  Either approach is fine, as long as the end result is that you get the right trees in the right places.

Some foresters will tell you to use a combination of percentage mixing and targeted mixing.  This is probably the best approach, and is fairly common.  You, as a planter, get to do what makes the most sense to you.  If you feel that the lowest quarter of your piece has the most moisture, you can plant all the spruce down there and tell the forester that's what you decided was best.  If you think the moisture content is pretty consistent throughout your piece, then you can just do a random percentage mix throughout your piece.  As long as you can justify the rationale that you used to make your decisions, the forester will be happy.  In other words, you'd end up doing what you think is best for the trees, without so many strict guidelines.

If you're still uncertain about what the best decisions are for picking spots for various species in your piece, ask your foreman or trainer.  He or she will be glad to help out.




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Here’s an Audio version of this material, in case you want to listen while you’re driving, running, at work, or otherwise unable to read or watch video:




Click on the down-arrow icon in the upper right corner of the SoundCloud widget to download the mp3.


Once again, for further information about this series of tree planter training information, visit:



I encourage you to share this information with anyone else who might be interested.  Thanks for your interest and support!

-          Jonathan “Scooter” Clark





Tree Planter Training 10 - Stock Handling

Although this blog is predominantly focused on my music and DJ’ing career, I also want to share some information about my other career:  Canadian Reforestation.

The information in this post is part of a training series from the Replant.ca website.  More information can be found at this link:



I’ll put the text and audio download link from this training module below, but let’s start with the YouTube video for the module:




Section 10 - “Stock Handling”

In this section, we'll look at Stock Handling.  We'll talk about the preferred methods of handling boxes, the preferred on-site storage methods, and we'll demonstrate how to handle seedlings and bundles correctly.


Once the trees arrive on-site to your planting camp, in a large truck or reefer, tree planters are the primary link in handling the seedlings until they're finally planted in the spots where they'll spend the rest of their growing lives.  This is the part of the seedlings' journey where stress can be most easily introduced, so it's important for us to treat the young trees with care.

How you handle seedlings will directly affect their survival.  From the time a seedling leaves the nursery, it's at risk.  There are obvious ways to mishandle trees, but you shouldn't underestimate the effect that a series of small stresses can have on seedlings.  Each stress is cumulative.  Once weakened, a seedling has less resistance to future stresses that it will encounter once planted.


On Site Seedling Storage

Once the trees are at the site, they'll need to be taken care of in a manner that maintains their optimum temperature and moisture.

Here are some basic rules for onsite seedling storage:
- Protect them from direct sunlight and temperature extremes.
- Thaw any frozen seedlings slowly and naturally, within closed boxes or under tarps.  The roots and plugs of seedling bundles should never be exposed to direct sunlight and air flow.
- If the plugs of the seedlings aren't very moist, give them a bit of water occasionally.  Don't soak them.
- Keep seedlings out of standing water or mud so their roots can breathe.
- Keep seedlings covered whenever possible, by natural shade, or by a reflective covering.
- Whenever possible, your main seedling cache should be a refrigerated trailer unit, referred to as a reefer.  The temperature in the reefer should be maintained between one and four degrees Celsius.  This is the optimum temperature to store the trees, until they're removed from this main cache and moved into trucks for their trip to the blocks.


Handling Seedling Boxes

Seedlings are sensitive to being crushed, and the trees undergo stress if the boxes are dropped.  During transportation in trucks or on ATV's, rough access adds stress to the seedlings.

Here are some basic rules for handling seedling boxes:
- Handle boxes carefully, without dropping or throwing them.  When unloading a reefer, slide them up the floor, and don't let the boxes crash out the end onto the ground.
- Keep the boxes upright, as seedlings can also be crushed when the boxes are crushed.
- If you need to stack boxes more than two boxes high, use a pattern of alternating orientation that strengthens the structural integrity of the pile.
- Keep the boxes closed when you're not bagging up.
- Don't sit on, stand on, or stack heavy objects on the boxes, if it causes the boxes to be crushed.
- Try not to ever let tree boxes get wet.  The cardboard is treated with wax, but the boxes still degrade when wet, and they'll crush more easily.  Storing trees in a reefer is always better than using a bush cache.


Correct Handling of Seedlings and Bundles

The highest risks to seedlings are when you handle them in bundles while bagging up, and as individual seedlings while you're planting them.

Your trainer or foreman will show you the proper way to load seedlings into your planting bags, also knowing as "bagging up."  Depending where you're working, you may be asked to use reflective inserts known as "silvicools" in your planting bags, to keep seedlings cool.  With the exception of your drawbag, which is the insert or inserts that you're actively drawing trees from, any other reserve inserts should be kept closed if it's a hot or sunny day.  Don't come back to the cache to take a break while you still have trees in your bags.  Make sure you bag out first, so seedlings aren't sitting in your bags for an unnecessary amount of time.

When you're planting, moving a seedling from your bags to the hole can damage it in numerous ways.  The laterals, needles, or the top bud (known as the leader) can be damaged.  The roots can be shaken or bent with rough handling.  Be gentle with the seedling as you're moving the tree out of your bags.  Don't unwrap too many at once, because on a hot day, the plugs will dry out faster.  At the end of the day, if you're stuck with some trees remaining in your bags, rewrap any loose trees, close the drawstrings on the inserts, and store the bags in a cool, safe place.  Your trainer or foreman will demonstrate the best way to handle the seedlings while you plant.


A bit of jostling around is inevitable for the seedlings.  However, we want to avoid unnecessary violence.  By treating them with some respect, you can have a significant effect on improving their survival rate.  Just like people, young trees are more susceptible to being hurt than mature trees.  Treat a box of trees just like it's a box of babies.  You don't want to being throwing boxes of babies around.




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Here’s an Audio version of this material, in case you want to listen while you’re driving, running, at work, or otherwise unable to read or watch video:




Click on the down-arrow icon in the upper right corner of the SoundCloud widget to download the mp3.


Once again, for further information about this series of tree planter training information, visit:



I encourage you to share this information with anyone else who might be interested.  Thanks for your interest and support!

-          Jonathan “Scooter” Clark





Tree Planter Training 09 - Basic Silviculture Knowledge

Although this blog is predominantly focused on my music and DJ’ing career, I also want to share some information about my other career:  Canadian Reforestation.

The information in this post is part of a training series from the Replant.ca website.  More information can be found at this link:



I’ll put the text and audio download link from this training module below, but let’s start with the YouTube video for the module:




Section 09 - “Basic Silviculture Knowledge”

In this section, we'll talk about some basic silviculture knowledge, why we plant trees, general obligations for government and industry, basic seedling physiology, and an examination of soils and ground layers.

Silviculture is the branch of forestry that deals with establishing, caring for, and reproducing stands of trees for a variety of forest uses including wildlife habitat, timber production, and outdoor recreation.

British Columbia has laws to ensure that when public Crown land is logged, it gets reforested to certain minimum standards.  The main legislation is the Forests & Range Practices Act.  Within this Act, there's a regulation called the Forest Planning & Practices Regulation which specifies the actual reforestation expectations, such as stocking standards, content requirements for silviculture plans, the use of seed, the specifics of “free growing” status, and reporting requirements.  Free Growing means that a plantation has reached a maturity level where the government basically says, “Good work,” and the logging company has no further reforestation obligations.


Stocking Standards

The plans that license holders operate under include detailed lists of stocking standards.  Let's try to understand what they mean.

Preferred and Acceptable Species are the different species that are considered to be best suited to the site.  Preferred species are those species that the forester would prefer to establish on the site.  Acceptable species aren't the best species for the site, or may have less value as future crop trees, but they'll grow well enough.  The combination of Preferred and Acceptable are the species that may legally be counted when doing surveys about the effectiveness of reforestation efforts.

The Target Stocking Standard (TSS) is the number of well-spaced preferred and acceptable trees per hectare that is expected to be able to eventually produce a free-growing crop.

The Minimum Stocking Standard for Preferred and Acceptable Species (MSSp+a) is the minimum number of well-spaced, preferred, and acceptable trees per hectare needed to achieve free growing status.

The Minimum Inter-Tree Distance (MITD) is the minimum acceptable horizontal distance between the centers of two trees.  If the trees are on a slope, you can't measure up or down the slope.  You have to imagine that the trees are grown up, so you need to measure horizontally between the centers of the trunks.

The Minimum Height at Free Growing is the minimum height that a healthy, well spaced tree must be, in order to count in a Free Growing survey.

The Regen Delay Date is the date by which a minimum number of healthy, well-spaced, preferred and acceptable trees must be established on the way to reaching Free Growing status.  There may be penalties for a logging company if they don't meet this date.

The Late Free Growing Date is the latest date by which a stand must be declared as Free Growing.  This is commonly twenty years after logging has been done.  There may be penalties for a logging company if they don't meet this date.

As you can see, the time frame for re-establishing a stand that's been logged covers a couple decades.  The cycle from logging a stand to watching it grow back to maturity can take a life-time, because trees might not be logged until they're eighty years old.  Planters are often present on the blocks for only a few days during this entire cycle.  Don't let this mislead you about the importance of your work.  Planters play a very significant role in the establishment of the new forest.  If the trees aren't there, they can't grow.  Natural regeneration from seeds on the ground complements the work that the planters do, but it's rarely enough to meet legal obligations.  Trees must be planted to supplement natural regeneration.


Basic Seedling Physiology

Physiology is the study of how living things work.  Seedling physiology relates to things that affect the survival and growth of seedlings.  If you understand tree physiology, you can make better judgments about microsite selection, or about which species to plant if you're planting multiple species on your piece.  You'll have a direct impact on seedling survival and growth.

Trees have a number of key requirements to ensure their continued survival.  Let's examine these requirements.  Water is obviously necessary.  Water moves essential elements throughout the tree.  Sugars are created when energy from sunlight is converted by photosynthesis.  Nutrients come primarily from the soil and its organisms.

Mycorrhizae are types of good fungi that help the tree with absorption of water and nutrients.  They also act as a defense against other harmful fungi.  Hormones and enzymes are produced in the roots or leaves, and control the physiological processes of the tree.

Environmental Factors such as precipitation, temperature, sunlight, and soils affect each tree species.  When selecting a microsite, planters have an opportunity to balance these factors to optimize seedling growth.  Microsites can be high and dry, or low and wet.  They can be cool or hot, exposed or protected from the sun and wind, and located in nutrient-poor or nutrient-rich soils.  As a planter, you're going to have to understand what all of this means.


Tree Structure

Every tree has some parts in common, even a baby tree, which may be called a seedling.

The roots absorb nutrients and water, and anchor the tree.  The roots are one of three growth sites on a tree.

The leaves (or needles) are the site of photosynthesis and hormone production.

The trunk provides support and a path for the transport of essential nutrients.  The outside of the trunk is another growth site.

Twigs and branches, often called “laterals” in young seedlings, provide support for leaves, needles, and cones.  The twigs are the third site for growth on the tree.

The Crown is the upper region of the tree.

The Bark protects the sensitive living tissues from weather and predation.

Flowers and Cones are the male and female reproductive parts of the tree.  There can be male or female cones, and male or female or unisex flowers.  To really confuse things, some trees can be male or female, and other trees have the reproductive parts for both genders, and some trees can even self-pollinate.  But this is a long and confusing story that varies significantly from species to species, so let's not worry about pollination.

Seeds are the part of the plant that contains the embryo.  They are contained in cones, fruits, or flowers.

Unfortunately, planters have the potential to damage seedlings with poor handling.  Each part of a young seedling is sensitive and critical to its growth and survival.  This explains why there's such an emphasis placed on stock-handling by supervisors, checkers, and silviculture foresters.


Shade Tolerance

Not all tree species require the same amount of sunlight to grow, as different species have different tolerances to shade.  An awareness of this shade tolerance will allow you to choose the best microsite for the tree.  Understanding this principle is key to selecting an appropriate species to plant in shaded areas.  For example, pine is generally a poor choice to plant under a mature canopy, or immediately to the north of a very large cliff.  All other things being equal, a more shade tolerant species like spruce would perform better.  I use these two species as examples, because about 95% of the trees planted in the northern BC Interior, which is where many first-year planters work, are pine and spruce.

Three common species that are very shade tolerant are Balsam Fir, Cedar, and Hemlock.

Two common species that are fairly shade tolerant are Douglas Fir and Spruce.

Three common species that are not very shade tolerant, and like open spaces, are Pine, Birch, and Aspen.


Environmental Factors Affecting Growth

When a silviculture forester is deciding how to reforest a site, he or she considers factors such as site preparation, species and density selection, timing of the planting, stock-type selection, and legal obligations.

Seedlings, once planted, can't just get up and move over a few feet to find a better spot.  When you decide where to plant a tree, it's stuck there permanently.  Hopefully, if you've picked a good spot and planted it well, it won't die for many decades.  Since seedlings can't move to avoid environmental stress, they must be able to tolerate it to some extent.

For photosynthesis, seedlings need the light to be of sufficient intensity.  The duration of light can trigger changes like winter dormancy.  If seedlings don't have enough light, they won't have normal form, and they won't be able to germinate seeds.

Temperature affects growth in three ways.  It affects enzyme and chemical reactions, which can only occur in a limited temperature range.  Changes in temperature trigger bud and seed cycles.  Temperature extremes can injure seedlings.  Interestingly, temperature extremes in the main upper part of the tree don't have a lot of effect.  Seedlings are most sensitive to high temperatures in the narrow band from about a centimeter above ground level, to about a centimeter below the ground level.  This is approximately where the seedling's “root collar” should be.  Incidentally, the temperature of a young seedling isn't affected just by climate and weather.  It's also affected by soil properties, the slope of the ground, and the aspect.  The aspect is the direction that the slope is facing.  Aspects that face south receive more sunlight, and are therefore warmer.

Frost may damage a seedling or reduce its growth.  Frost is common at high elevations, or in depressions where cold air pools.  It will damage young trees that have not gone through a physiological process known as hardening off.  Frost may also cause frost-heaving, especially in fine-textured soils.  If you're planting on a frost-prone site, you may be asked to plant on raised microsites to minimize frost problems.

Too much or too little water can be a problem.  Drought tends to be a problem on southern exposures, or on rocky and coarse-textured soils.  Excessive moisture obviously accumulates in low-lying areas, and soil that is too wet has too little oxygen for proper seedling growth.  Tree roots need to breathe too.  If you're planting in high-moisture areas, try to hit raised microsites, up out of the water as much as possible.  If you're planting in a drought area, stay away from grass competition, find a shady microsite, and avoid elevated microsites as much as possible.

Seedlings can be affected by physical damage.  Snow pack in the winter can bend trees, reducing their value and their ability to compete for sunlight, and also increasing the possibility that they might break.  Heavy vegetation can choke out young trees.  Animals and insects can also cause physical damage that might compromise critical tree structures.

The type of soil affects the nutrients.  Finer soils are more nutrient-rich.  Duff is also an important source of nutrients.  Low nutrient sites can be managed by adding fertilizer, although planters in northern Interior BC don't usually plant fertilizer packs along with trees.


Basic Soils and Planting Media

Soils are made up of a mix of a mineral soil component, organic matter, water, and air.  Having a mix of each of the four parts is important for good seedling growth.  If you were to take an “average” or typical soil from within BC, you would probably find that it is composed of 46% minerals, 26% air, 22% water, and 6% organics.  This type of typical “dirt” is often referred to as mineral soil by planters, although mineral soil is technically a specific component within “dirt.”

Air is required for a number of biological processes, including the seedling's ability to metabolize sugars into usable energy.

As we already mentioned, water is also a biological requirement for a seedling, and is used for transporting nutrients within the plant.

Organic Matter (also known as duff) is beneficial in that it holds moisture and nutrients.  It also acts as a bit of an insulator from temperature changes, and as a cementing agent.  Organic matter is essential for site productivity.  It consists of decomposed and un-decomposed litter, old root materials, and the biomass of soil organisms.

Within the soil category of mineral soil, there are both fine and coarse fragments.  Coarse fragments would be things like small rocks and gravel or stones.  The amount of coarse fragments in a soil, which is usually expressed as a percentage of the total soil volume, influences a number of soil factors such as drainage, nutrient holding capacity, rooting volume, and trafficability.

Let's look in more detail at the other category, the fines.  Fine fragments can be further divided into three textures:  sand, silt, and clay.  Each texture has different properties which play different roles in seedling growth.  Planters quickly learn about these texture types, because they can really affect the speed of your planting.

Sand is the coarsest of the three fine fragment textures.  Sand is non-sticky and non-moldable and therefore won't compact easily.  It tends to be nutrient poor, but it provides good drainage and trafficability.  Planting on a sandy block, especially with a tiny bit of moisture to help it hold its shape, is one of the greatest pleasures of a planter's career.  It's like planting in soft butter.  Sand is very easy to plant in, but unfortunately, fairly rare.

Silt is mid-range in texture, between sand and clay.  Silt is almost soapy and slippery to the touch, and slightly sticky.  It's a bit more nutrient-rich than sand.  Silt is also quite nice to plant in.

Clay is the finest of the fine textures.  Clay is sticky, moldable, and hard when dry.  It's the most nutrient-rich of the three fine textures, and has the highest water holding capacity.  Unfortunately for planters, it's not easy to plant in.  You'll find it difficult to drive your shovel into clay, and you'll also have problems closing holes.

Loamy soils are a mix of all three fine textures.  They're considered to be ideal for seedling growth as they offer the advantages of all three textures.  Loamy soils are usually pretty good to plant in.

Depending on the contract, there will be varying points of view about the suitability of organic matter as a planting medium.  On the coast, planting in organics is highly encouraged for many species, but the coast is a lot different than the BC Interior.  In Alberta, you'll find that organic matter is often acceptable or encouraged as a planting medium.  In the BC Interior though, you'll find a range of planting specs.  In some places, such as Kamloops, planting in mineral soil is currently mandatory.  If you have a few inches of organics on top of mineral soil, you have to dig down through the organics before you're allowed to plant.  This is called screefing.  In many other places in the Interior, a healthy mix of organics and mineral soil is preferred, as long as you're not planting in chunky red rot.  Basically, the requirements vary so much from location to location that you'll just have to see what the local forester is asking for.


Seasons

Since we briefly referred to frost and dormancy already, let me quickly mention something about seasons.  Tree planting cannot be done year-round in Canada, so it's considered to be seasonal work.  Many planters refer to the length of their employment in seasons, rather than years.

In the BC Interior, when you talk about things in a physiological sense, relating to the growth of the trees, planting is broken down into a Spring season from late April to mid-June, and a Summer season from mid-June until August.  The trees planted each Spring season are grown in nurseries the previous year, and then put into frozen storage over the winter.  They get thawed out just before the planters start to plant them, so those Spring trees are slowly waking up out of winter dormancy.  The trees planted in the Summer season, however, are sown in March and grown in nursery beds until mid-June, so when they're delivered to planting camps in late June and July, they're not dormant at all.  These trees are called "hot lifted" trees.  They're fully awake, and growing as quickly as they can.

There isn't much visible difference between spring trees and hot-lifted trees.  The boxes that the seedlings come in will usually have a bag liner for spring trees, but there won't be bags with summer trees.  And you might occasionally get some frozen bundles with spring trees if the thaw request wasn't submitted early enough.  Companies usually ask for the nurseries or storage facilities to start thawing spring trees approximately ten days before the trees are delivered to the planting site.  Visually, spring and summer seedlings look the same.

In a physiological sense, there's a big difference between the Spring and Summer trees, but this distinction doesn't mean much to planters.  Most planters just refer to the whole calendar period from April through August as a single work period.  As an example, someone who started planting last year and who worked from early May until early August would say, “Last year was my first season.”

There is also a small Spring Coastal season from late January to mid-April, and a small Fall Coastal season from late August to early October.  The number of trees planted on the coast is very small in comparison to the volumes in the Interior, so only a relatively small number of planters work these two seasons.  My guess is that there are perhaps less than four hundred people who plant on the coast each year, and maybe more than six thousand people who plant in the Interior.  Competition for the coastal jobs is pretty fierce, so prices aren't as lucrative as they used to be.  Applicants for coastal jobs usually need at least four or five seasons of experience in the Interior before they can hope to be considered for a job.  Planting on the coast is much, much more difficult than planting in the Interior.




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Here’s an Audio version of this material, in case you want to listen while you’re driving, running, at work, or otherwise unable to read or watch video:




Click on the down-arrow icon in the upper right corner of the SoundCloud widget to download the mp3.


Once again, for further information about this series of tree planter training information, visit:



I encourage you to share this information with anyone else who might be interested.  Thanks for your interest and support!

-          Jonathan “Scooter” Clark