Showing posts with label learn. Show all posts
Showing posts with label learn. Show all posts

Tuesday, March 14, 2017

Learn to Start DJ'ing with Virtual DJ

Starting in 2024, I've copied all of the content from this old blog post onto my main website.  Any future updates will take place there, rather than here.  I'd recommend that you continue on the main website rather than here, unless you like the formatting of this blog post better.  Here's the link:




Thanks for visiting my blog.  This post will be part of an extensive tutorial for beginners about Virtual DJ, a software package for both windows and Macs, which is suitable for both beginning DJ’s and professional performances.  If you want to watch the videos for this series, instead of reading this blog post, the links to the six videos are near the bottom of this page.

You may wonder why I'm qualified to teach this, so I'll introduce myself.  I’m Jonathan Clark, also known online as DJ Bolivia, and I’ve been DJ’ing both as a hobby and professionally for over twenty years.  I've played shows on five different continents.  I have quite a few different video tutorials on YouTube, about everything from DJ’ing to music production to audio engineering tutorials, plus a lot of fun stuff like music videos, performances by other DJ’s, and stuff like that.  You can find an organized list of all those videos on my website at:  djbolivia.ca/videos

Let me be very up front about something right away, because a lot of “professional” DJ’s who learned to beat-mix on vinyl and CD’s can sometimes look down on DJ’ing with software on computers or mobile devices.  They might say that only amateurs would use Virtual DJ.  I understand that mindset:  I played on vinyl at clubs and at warehouse parties for about fifteen years before I even touched a pitch-controlled CD player, and even then, with some reluctance.  I felt the same reluctance before I did my first live show using Ableton Live software to perform.  But having recently started playing with Virtual DJ (just for the sake of this tutorial series), I’m seriously impressed with its capabilities.




The equipment that you use as a DJ is just a set of tools.  Ultimately, although your dance floor does appreciate the technical skills required to mix songs together seamlessly as you progress through your set, the most important part of your performance is your programming, which refers to the music that you pick.  In my experience, ninety percent of what a dance floor judges you on is your programming, and only ten percent on technical skills.  Let’s be clear here … you DO have to have good flow to your set, with no gaps between songs, no times when two songs are playing simultaneously and clashing badly, and a consistent beat as you flow from song to song.  And you need to make sure you have a consistent volume as you flow through your set.  That’s what your DJ'ing tools help you with, and it doesn’t matter if you have turntables, CD players, or DJ’ing software.  After you control those things, what’s most important is the music itself.

Don’t get me wrong - I’m not against learning the skills of beat-mixing on traditional equipment.  In fact, if you want to become a professional or even a semi-professional DJ someday, then I highly recommend that you DO eventually learn to beat-mix on CD’s player or turntables, or both.  However, I feel that most people reading this post and watching these videos are probably DJ’s who are just getting started.  If you’re in this “beginner DJ” category, you’re probably not going to be getting booked to play festivals or major clubs for a while.  You should assume that you’re going to have to devote some time at home to practicing the basics before you play your first public event.  And assume that most of the first dozen or so public performances you do might be at house parties and for friends, before you get your first booking for a public gig with an audience that paid to be at the show.  I want you to realize that if you’re going to try to become a professional DJ someday, then absolutely yes, you want to think about beat-mixing on CD players or vinyl within a year or so.  But using DJ software is a great way to get introduced to performing in front of people, and takes away some of the pressure of the technical aspects, so you can focus on learning how to read a crowd, knowing how to get through the difficult task of performing when you don’t have anyone on the dance floor yet, and dealing with people hounding you for requests in a dimly lit and noisy environment when you’re trying to cue (queue) up the next song.

Having set the scene, let me emphasize that this post and videos are for BEGINNING DJ’s.  If you already have experience as a performing DJ, and you’re comfortable with computers, be aware that you can probably figure the program out pretty quickly on your own.  The pace of this video series will be too slow for you.  I’m going to assume that the audience here is beginners, and I’m going to take my time and explain everything as clearly as I can, and try not to make any assumptions.  If you’re an experienced DJ and you want to watch these videos anyway, to make sure you’re not overlooking anything, well … I thank you for your patience.

The videos to accompany this post consist of a four-part series.  The first video is basically saying exactly what this post is explaining, so if you read through this whole post, you can probably skip the first video.  I’ll describe what I’m attempting to teach, cover an overview of what the software can do, and I’ll wrap up with a quick demonstration of installation and licensing (installation/licensing is in the video only, not in this blog post).  In video #1, I’m basically just talking to the camera.

The next three videos are more technical.  They're not transcribed into this blog post, because they rely on visuals.  In those videos, you’ll be looking at screen captures most of the time.  Here’s what I covered:

          1 – Overview, comparison with other DJ software, installation
          2 – The console, controls, and the media browser
          3 – Basic mixing, using both mouse and controllers
          4 – Going through the settings and preferences

Above and beyond that, I have links to a couple of other videos.  At the moment, there's one video where I record a full episode of my weekly radio show (Subterranean Homesick Grooves) using just a simple Numark Mixtrack controller plus the keyboard and mouse, and a second video where I get a bit more fancy and use a full-fledged professional DJ mixer, the Allen & Heath Xone 4D, with integrated soundcard and controller panels.  I may add some more Virtual DJ performance videos in the future.

If you’re just starting out with DJ’ing, I’m going to try to keep things simple, but I’m going to have to make a few assumptions in these videos and assume that you know some of the basics already.  There may be parts where you’re confused about things that I’m talking about.  If you get to any point where you’re getting confused about what I’m explaining, I want you to pause the Virtual DJ video and do some side research.  I have a bunch of other videos already online that I think will teach you just about everything you need to know.  If you’re starting totally from scratch, you may need an entire weekend to watch them all, but they’ll give you a firm foundation about what you’re getting yourself into, before you learn exactly how to use Virtual DJ.  Basically, I have five other individual videos or sets of videos that will help you learn everything else you need to know.  Here’s what they are:

First, my DJ’ing for Beginners series is a set of four videos designed for complete beginners, which covers a complete overview of the basics of the DJ industry.  This series covers dozens of topics, including all of the following:  Different types of DJ’s, different ways to perform, equipment, vinyl vs CD vs digital, basic beat-mixing & turntablism, mixers, headphones, turntables, pitch control CD players, digital performance equipment, effects machines, controllers, amplifiers, speakers, subs, monitors, compressors, equalizers, lighting, microphones, licensing, programming, set flow, DJ software, Ableton Live, working with promoters, getting booked, demo mixes, producing your own remixes and original tracks, and more.

If you’ve never used a DJ mixer before, my UnderstandingAudio Mixers & DJ Mixers video will teach you about all the different parts and capabilities of a mixer, so when you first start using a real mixer, you won’t be intimidated by the dozens of knobs and faders and other controls.  Understanding this video will give you a very good understanding of how the Virtual DJ on-screen mixer works.

I have two videos about beat-mixing.  The first video is for CD’s and the second video is for turntables.  You only need to watch the first one, since that video is the one with all the theory you’ll need to know about counting beats, understanding phrasing, and knowing how to blend two songs together smoothly.  The same principles that I explain in that video are used in mixing within Virtual DJ, although the benefit is that Virtual DJ makes it much easier to match up the beats.

If you’re starting to use Virtual DJ at home, you may be doing all of your mixing with the keyboard and mouse.  That’s cool.  However, the one drawback with a mouse is that it only has one cursor, so you can only change one thing at a time.  That’s where a controller comes in.  A controller is a separate piece of physical equipment that you attach to your computer, and the controls on your controller can change settings on the laptop.  The two best things about a controller are that it’s very hands-on, and is more physically intuitive to use than a mouse.  You can also control more than one parameter at a time, because you have two hands.  While a controller isn’t necessary to use Virtual DJ, it’ll make your life a lot easier as a DJ.  There are hundreds of different types of controllers available these days, and my Using MIDI Controllers video will help you understand your options and how your controllers work with your computer.

Finally, I have a series about Mobile DJ’ing.  That seems somewhat unrelated to learning how to use Virtual DJ, but I know that after a month or so of practicing at home, you’re going to be really eager to perform in front of other people.  Playing for friends at house parties is a good start, but you may also be able to get some paid gigs, as you start gaining confidence.  I don’t think the two videos in my Mobile DJ'ing series are critical to learning about Virtual DJ, but I think they’ll be very important for you to watch during your first month after starting to use Virtual DJ.  These videos talk about things like types of events, vehicles, licensing, insurance, costs of gear, setting prices, accounting, marketing, contracts, deposits, competition, and a more detailed run-down of gear that you may need to bring with you to shows.


Why Use Virtual DJ?

Ok, let’s start to focus on the software.  Who is Virtual DJ good for?  Well, I’ve heard a lot of people say that it’s just designed for amateur DJ’s.  Nothing could be further from the truth.  I’ve seen DJ’s do excellent performances with Virtual DJ at very large shows.  I know DJ’s who are professional turntablists and excellent at beat-mixing, who use Virtual DJ as a legitimate tool.  I’ve seen Virtual DJ being used in hundreds of performances at house parties, weddings, university events, clubs, and festivals.  Unless you’re a top tier A-list DJ getting paid tens of thousands of dollars per gig, or a highly skilled turntablist, Virtual DJ is professional enough to meet your needs quite easily.  Don’t judge it as being amateur software.  It may have been so at the start, but it’s come a long, long way in the past couple years.  It’s used by professionals, but it’s still simple to use and has a very easy learning curve.

Virtual DJ competes in a space with a couple of other well-known programs, especially Serato and Traktor.  Let me see if I can give you a good comparison about the strengths of these three programs, although all three are great programs that will cover all the basics.

Virtual DJ is a great all-around program, and perhaps the easiest for a beginning DJ to use.  If I’m talking to someone who has never touched turntables or pitch controlled CD players before, and they’re interested in DJ’ing with digital DJ software for the first time, I’ll usually recommend Virtual DJ to them, at least ninety percent of the time.  Even though it’s an all-around program, it can handle more complex tasks like integrating with traditional direct-drive turntables using time-code vinyl.

Serato is a system that’s fairly similar to Virtual DJ.  The on-screen display is slightly different, but the basics are the same.  Serato was traditionally viewed as being more of a professional DJ’ing platform, but Virtual DJ has really closed that gap.  However, a couple places where Serato might still have a slight advantage would be in the quality of in-house effects, and in ease of communications with various pre-mapped industry controllers.  Also, if you’re a music producer and want to integrate elements from Ableton Live, or integrate live performance aspects, Serato is especially flexible.

Traktor is the final package of the “Big Three” digital DJ’ing platforms.  Quite a long time ago, there was a package called Final Scratch, put out by Native Instruments in a partnership with Stanton.  That was really the first time-code vinyl experiment to merge traditional turntables with digital music.  I had a Final Scratch system in the early 2000’s, and played with it a lot.  Around 2005, Native Instruments and Stanton parted ways, and eventually Native Instruments moved forward with Traktor.  Although Traktor basically has a lot of the same capabilities as Virtual DJ and Serato, its roots were in the time-code vinyl ecosphere.  Any DJ whose main talents and intended use tend towards integration of traditional turntables with your digital DJ software will probably gravitate toward using Traktor.

I'll eventually try to produce a series of videos about Serato, and another series of videos about Traktor (plus some advanced Virtual DJ tutorials).


Purchasing Options

Virtual DJ has a huge strength that other DJ’ing software packages don’t have:  If you’re a home user, using it without external controllers, it’s free.  Completely.  Forever.  That sounds too good to be true, but as long as you’re not using the software in a professional sense (ie. paid gigs), and you’re just using a basic computer system, you qualify.

Many DJ’s will want to move past that point, sooner or later.  If you start playing at paid shows, you’re supposed to upgrade to a professional license.  Is there any way for them to prevent you from using your home version at a paid show?  No, not really, although I’m pretty convinced that even though a lot of young DJ’s are perpetually broke, you’ll soon see the value in paying for a license.

The free home version does have one restriction that will affect some DJ’s.  It won’t work with any external controller unless you pay for software licensing in one of three ways.  Do you need an external controller?  No, you can do everything with a mouse and keyboard, although a controller is more convenient.  Naturally, a lot of people will want to start using controllers eventually, so you’ll probably want to pay for a license at some point.  This becomes almost a certainty once you start playing at paid gigs.  Even though you might feel that you want to try to save money by not buying a license, I recommend that you should get a license, and also step up your game by integrating a controller, to make it easier to perform.

Let’s assume that you’ve moved past the point where you can rely on the free home-user version.  You now have three options:  (1) Buy a per-controller license;  (2) Buy a full life-time license; or (3) Buy a monthly subscription license that expires 30 days after the start of your subscription, unless you set up a credit card to do automatic monthly renewals.

If you go with a per controller license, the cost depends on what controller you want to use.  Basically, the lower the retail value of the actual controller, the cheaper it probably is to license.  The cheapest controllers are $49 to license, and the most expensive can be as much as $199 USD.  Virtual DJ recognizes and has rates for just about every known controller produced anywhere in the world today.

If you start using more than one controller, your cost may start getting pretty high.  For example, I currently have six different controllers that I want to integrate with Virtual DJ, plus a seventh that I’m considering.  Most of these are between $99 and $199 apiece.  Here’s a list:




Whoa!  That’s super expensive.  But don’t worry, Virtual DJ has a deal for you.  If the cost of the different controllers that you want to use comes to more than $299, you can buy an all-inclusive Pro license which is good for all time, and lets you use ALL controllers with the software, with no restrictions.  Therefore, $299 is the absolute maximum cost to buy a full pro license for the Virtual DJ software.  When I have the $299 full pro license, I can use all seven of the controllers that I listed above, plus any other controller available on the market.

A final option, if you don’t have enough money to pay for your controller license or a full Pro license up front, is that you can pay for a monthly pro subscription.  It runs for 30 days from the time you start it, and you can keep renewing.  This subscription costs about $19 per month in USD.  I'm in Canada, and rather than bill in USD, they bill me $27.99 per month in Canadian dollars.  You can turn it off if you don’t use the software for a few months, then turn it back on when you need to use it again.  The best thing is that Virtual DJ keeps track of how much you’ve paid in monthly subscription fees.  If you eventually reach $299, they give you a full permanent pro license.  The monthly subscription is a good way of letting you test the software for a while with no restrictions, and it’s also a good way of financing the cost of the program if you can’t afford to pay for it up front.


Content Subscriptions

The final thing that I want to talk about, before we go into a run-through of setting up and installing the software, is content licenses.  A content license is different than your software license.  The software license, which I already talked about, is related to your permission to use the software professionally or with controllers.  A content license is completely separate, and it is NOT mandatory.  It’s just convenient for DJ’s who need a lot of music for their performances.

DJ’s can sometimes need hundreds of songs every month for their shows.  It can be extremely expensive to buy all this music outright, especially since you’ll sometimes play a particular song at only one show during your entire career.  This is a really prohibitive cost for anyone considering a career as a DJ.  So certain organizations have come up with a solution, and Virtual DJ implements what’s called a “Content Unlimited Subscription Plan.”

Virtual DJ has three separate Content Unlimited Subscription Plans, as follows:


If you subscribe to one of these plans, you’re allowed to download/stream content from the Content Unlimited organization for a full month, and have access to pretty much any music in the world.  The Audio Plan has literally millions of songs available in every genre, with tons of different remixes, and everything is in appropriate quality for you to play at a gig.  Obviously, the karaoke and video plans are different types of media, but the concept is the same.

Imagine that.  Ten dollars per month and you have legal access to a global catalogue of content, with absolutely no risk of running into copyright issues for playing music at public performances!  Well, depending on what country you’re in, you may technically need an annual performer’s license for your country, just for the right to earn money at public performances.  But this Content Unlimited Subscription through Virtual DJ ensures that you’re not going to get into trouble for the specific music that you’re playing.  What a time to be alive!  I can’t emphasize what a great deal this is for DJ’s, and many DJ’s won’t appreciate the challenges that myself and other DJ's had in building our music collections twenty years ago, before the internet and digital music even existed.  I won’t go into these plans in any more detail here, but if you need a broader selection of music, you can look at the details on the Virtual DJ website.


Installing the Virtual DJ Software

I’m not going to go through the steps required to install Virtual DJ in this blog post.  You should be able to figure it out, and get things up and running on your own.  If you need help, I did demonstrate the process of downloading and installing it onto a Windows system in the Part 1 Overview video.  Basically, the steps that you need to follow are:

1.       Set up a free account when you go to the Virtual DJ website.  You’ll need this if you eventually do any software or content licensing.
2.       Download and install the software on your computer.
3.       If you’re going to play professionally or use a controller, pay for one of the three types of licenses to get you up and running (monthly subscription, permanent pro license, or per-controller license).
4.    [Optional]  Start a Content Unlimited subscription, if you want to use one.


By the way, if you DON’T have one of the three software licenses that allow you to use a controller, you can still make the controller work temporarily in a basic “demo mode.”  When you connect your controller without a license, it’ll work for ten minutes before Virtual DJ shuts it off and reminds you that you need a license.  The only way around this is to reboot the software, which obviously can’t be done in the middle of a performance.  So if you want to make sure things are working properly at a public gig, I highly recommend that you just accept the fact right now that you’re going to want to buy a license.

The information that I've talked about so far can be found in the following video, if you'd like to review it again.  But if you've read this far, you can skip this Part 1 video:



Tour of the Console/Controls, Basic Mixing, & Settings/Preferences:

All of the rest of the stuff that I want to explain can’t be done very easily in a blog post.  So at this point, if you’re set up and ready to start learning how to use the software, I’d recommend you watch the following three videos:








Ok, that pretty much summarizes things.  At this point, you should have a pretty good idea of what Virtual DJ is all about, and how to mix music with it.  The best way to get better is to practice, so if you’re trying to prepare for your first gig, I’d recommend that you try to set aside 30-60 minutes per day to play with the system at home, until you’re completely comfortable with using it.

If you want a “hot tip” on how to become a better DJ, I recommend that you record some of your practice sets, and then sit back and listen to them with a critical ear.  Were the volumes consistent from track to track?  Did you avoid any dead air between songs?  Did the mixes sound smooth when you were transitioning from one song to another?  Did the “flow” of the set (your programming of music choices) seem logical, or were you jumping rapidly back and forth between genres?  Weak programming might clear your dance floor, so pay a lot of attention to that.

If you find the time to practice for about an hour a day on average, I don’t see why a new DJ wouldn’t be ready for a small public show in less than three months.  I’ve occasionally seen someone pull off their first show in just a few weeks, in an emergency, especially if they already knew a lot about the music that people would want to hear, and can practice for several hours each day during those few weeks.

I’m going to leave you with a couple of demonstration sets that I recorded.  These were a couple different episodes of my weekly tech-house and techno radio show, Subterranean Homesick Grooves.  For the first set, SHG 351, I used just the mouse and a Numark Mixtrack controller during my performance.  For the second set, SHG 352, I used an Allen & Heath Xone 4D mixer/controller.  I also have a popular Xone 4D Tutorial Video about how to use that mixer.









And in the meantime, here are the Soundcloud links for the two mixes that I created with Virtual DJ in those two demo videos.  SHG 351 is tech/house/techno, but with an emphasis mostly on upbeat house and tech.  SHG 352 is a slightly darker and more techno-oriented mix.



You can find track listings for each of those mixes in the description on SoundCloud, and you can also see them track-by-track as you watch the two videos.




I'm Jonathan Clark, known online as DJ Bolivia.  Do you want to learn more about DJ'ing and music production?  If so, visit:



If you happen to enjoy techno tracks, most of my tracks are available as free downloads from this link:



Thanks so much for visit, and for your support!  I really appreciate the fan base that I've been able to build up over the years.

Also, if you want to visit any of my other sites, here are a few links:
    YouTube:  youtube.com/djbolivia
    SoundCloud:  soundcloud.com/djbolivia
    Blogger:  djbolivia.blogspot.com
    Main Site:  www.djbolivia.ca

Wednesday, February 22, 2017

Tree Planter Training 09 - Basic Silviculture Knowledge

Although this blog is predominantly focused on my music and DJ’ing career, I also want to share some information about my other career:  Canadian Reforestation.

The information in this post is part of a training series from the Replant.ca website.  More information can be found at this link:



I’ll put the text and audio download link from this training module below, but let’s start with the YouTube video for the module:




Section 09 - “Basic Silviculture Knowledge”

In this section, we'll talk about some basic silviculture knowledge, why we plant trees, general obligations for government and industry, basic seedling physiology, and an examination of soils and ground layers.

Silviculture is the branch of forestry that deals with establishing, caring for, and reproducing stands of trees for a variety of forest uses including wildlife habitat, timber production, and outdoor recreation.

British Columbia has laws to ensure that when public Crown land is logged, it gets reforested to certain minimum standards.  The main legislation is the Forests & Range Practices Act.  Within this Act, there's a regulation called the Forest Planning & Practices Regulation which specifies the actual reforestation expectations, such as stocking standards, content requirements for silviculture plans, the use of seed, the specifics of “free growing” status, and reporting requirements.  Free Growing means that a plantation has reached a maturity level where the government basically says, “Good work,” and the logging company has no further reforestation obligations.


Stocking Standards

The plans that license holders operate under include detailed lists of stocking standards.  Let's try to understand what they mean.

Preferred and Acceptable Species are the different species that are considered to be best suited to the site.  Preferred species are those species that the forester would prefer to establish on the site.  Acceptable species aren't the best species for the site, or may have less value as future crop trees, but they'll grow well enough.  The combination of Preferred and Acceptable are the species that may legally be counted when doing surveys about the effectiveness of reforestation efforts.

The Target Stocking Standard (TSS) is the number of well-spaced preferred and acceptable trees per hectare that is expected to be able to eventually produce a free-growing crop.

The Minimum Stocking Standard for Preferred and Acceptable Species (MSSp+a) is the minimum number of well-spaced, preferred, and acceptable trees per hectare needed to achieve free growing status.

The Minimum Inter-Tree Distance (MITD) is the minimum acceptable horizontal distance between the centers of two trees.  If the trees are on a slope, you can't measure up or down the slope.  You have to imagine that the trees are grown up, so you need to measure horizontally between the centers of the trunks.

The Minimum Height at Free Growing is the minimum height that a healthy, well spaced tree must be, in order to count in a Free Growing survey.

The Regen Delay Date is the date by which a minimum number of healthy, well-spaced, preferred and acceptable trees must be established on the way to reaching Free Growing status.  There may be penalties for a logging company if they don't meet this date.

The Late Free Growing Date is the latest date by which a stand must be declared as Free Growing.  This is commonly twenty years after logging has been done.  There may be penalties for a logging company if they don't meet this date.

As you can see, the time frame for re-establishing a stand that's been logged covers a couple decades.  The cycle from logging a stand to watching it grow back to maturity can take a life-time, because trees might not be logged until they're eighty years old.  Planters are often present on the blocks for only a few days during this entire cycle.  Don't let this mislead you about the importance of your work.  Planters play a very significant role in the establishment of the new forest.  If the trees aren't there, they can't grow.  Natural regeneration from seeds on the ground complements the work that the planters do, but it's rarely enough to meet legal obligations.  Trees must be planted to supplement natural regeneration.


Basic Seedling Physiology

Physiology is the study of how living things work.  Seedling physiology relates to things that affect the survival and growth of seedlings.  If you understand tree physiology, you can make better judgments about microsite selection, or about which species to plant if you're planting multiple species on your piece.  You'll have a direct impact on seedling survival and growth.

Trees have a number of key requirements to ensure their continued survival.  Let's examine these requirements.  Water is obviously necessary.  Water moves essential elements throughout the tree.  Sugars are created when energy from sunlight is converted by photosynthesis.  Nutrients come primarily from the soil and its organisms.

Mycorrhizae are types of good fungi that help the tree with absorption of water and nutrients.  They also act as a defense against other harmful fungi.  Hormones and enzymes are produced in the roots or leaves, and control the physiological processes of the tree.

Environmental Factors such as precipitation, temperature, sunlight, and soils affect each tree species.  When selecting a microsite, planters have an opportunity to balance these factors to optimize seedling growth.  Microsites can be high and dry, or low and wet.  They can be cool or hot, exposed or protected from the sun and wind, and located in nutrient-poor or nutrient-rich soils.  As a planter, you're going to have to understand what all of this means.


Tree Structure

Every tree has some parts in common, even a baby tree, which may be called a seedling.

The roots absorb nutrients and water, and anchor the tree.  The roots are one of three growth sites on a tree.

The leaves (or needles) are the site of photosynthesis and hormone production.

The trunk provides support and a path for the transport of essential nutrients.  The outside of the trunk is another growth site.

Twigs and branches, often called “laterals” in young seedlings, provide support for leaves, needles, and cones.  The twigs are the third site for growth on the tree.

The Crown is the upper region of the tree.

The Bark protects the sensitive living tissues from weather and predation.

Flowers and Cones are the male and female reproductive parts of the tree.  There can be male or female cones, and male or female or unisex flowers.  To really confuse things, some trees can be male or female, and other trees have the reproductive parts for both genders, and some trees can even self-pollinate.  But this is a long and confusing story that varies significantly from species to species, so let's not worry about pollination.

Seeds are the part of the plant that contains the embryo.  They are contained in cones, fruits, or flowers.

Unfortunately, planters have the potential to damage seedlings with poor handling.  Each part of a young seedling is sensitive and critical to its growth and survival.  This explains why there's such an emphasis placed on stock-handling by supervisors, checkers, and silviculture foresters.


Shade Tolerance

Not all tree species require the same amount of sunlight to grow, as different species have different tolerances to shade.  An awareness of this shade tolerance will allow you to choose the best microsite for the tree.  Understanding this principle is key to selecting an appropriate species to plant in shaded areas.  For example, pine is generally a poor choice to plant under a mature canopy, or immediately to the north of a very large cliff.  All other things being equal, a more shade tolerant species like spruce would perform better.  I use these two species as examples, because about 95% of the trees planted in the northern BC Interior, which is where many first-year planters work, are pine and spruce.

Three common species that are very shade tolerant are Balsam Fir, Cedar, and Hemlock.

Two common species that are fairly shade tolerant are Douglas Fir and Spruce.

Three common species that are not very shade tolerant, and like open spaces, are Pine, Birch, and Aspen.


Environmental Factors Affecting Growth

When a silviculture forester is deciding how to reforest a site, he or she considers factors such as site preparation, species and density selection, timing of the planting, stock-type selection, and legal obligations.

Seedlings, once planted, can't just get up and move over a few feet to find a better spot.  When you decide where to plant a tree, it's stuck there permanently.  Hopefully, if you've picked a good spot and planted it well, it won't die for many decades.  Since seedlings can't move to avoid environmental stress, they must be able to tolerate it to some extent.

For photosynthesis, seedlings need the light to be of sufficient intensity.  The duration of light can trigger changes like winter dormancy.  If seedlings don't have enough light, they won't have normal form, and they won't be able to germinate seeds.

Temperature affects growth in three ways.  It affects enzyme and chemical reactions, which can only occur in a limited temperature range.  Changes in temperature trigger bud and seed cycles.  Temperature extremes can injure seedlings.  Interestingly, temperature extremes in the main upper part of the tree don't have a lot of effect.  Seedlings are most sensitive to high temperatures in the narrow band from about a centimeter above ground level, to about a centimeter below the ground level.  This is approximately where the seedling's “root collar” should be.  Incidentally, the temperature of a young seedling isn't affected just by climate and weather.  It's also affected by soil properties, the slope of the ground, and the aspect.  The aspect is the direction that the slope is facing.  Aspects that face south receive more sunlight, and are therefore warmer.

Frost may damage a seedling or reduce its growth.  Frost is common at high elevations, or in depressions where cold air pools.  It will damage young trees that have not gone through a physiological process known as hardening off.  Frost may also cause frost-heaving, especially in fine-textured soils.  If you're planting on a frost-prone site, you may be asked to plant on raised microsites to minimize frost problems.

Too much or too little water can be a problem.  Drought tends to be a problem on southern exposures, or on rocky and coarse-textured soils.  Excessive moisture obviously accumulates in low-lying areas, and soil that is too wet has too little oxygen for proper seedling growth.  Tree roots need to breathe too.  If you're planting in high-moisture areas, try to hit raised microsites, up out of the water as much as possible.  If you're planting in a drought area, stay away from grass competition, find a shady microsite, and avoid elevated microsites as much as possible.

Seedlings can be affected by physical damage.  Snow pack in the winter can bend trees, reducing their value and their ability to compete for sunlight, and also increasing the possibility that they might break.  Heavy vegetation can choke out young trees.  Animals and insects can also cause physical damage that might compromise critical tree structures.

The type of soil affects the nutrients.  Finer soils are more nutrient-rich.  Duff is also an important source of nutrients.  Low nutrient sites can be managed by adding fertilizer, although planters in northern Interior BC don't usually plant fertilizer packs along with trees.


Basic Soils and Planting Media

Soils are made up of a mix of a mineral soil component, organic matter, water, and air.  Having a mix of each of the four parts is important for good seedling growth.  If you were to take an “average” or typical soil from within BC, you would probably find that it is composed of 46% minerals, 26% air, 22% water, and 6% organics.  This type of typical “dirt” is often referred to as mineral soil by planters, although mineral soil is technically a specific component within “dirt.”

Air is required for a number of biological processes, including the seedling's ability to metabolize sugars into usable energy.

As we already mentioned, water is also a biological requirement for a seedling, and is used for transporting nutrients within the plant.

Organic Matter (also known as duff) is beneficial in that it holds moisture and nutrients.  It also acts as a bit of an insulator from temperature changes, and as a cementing agent.  Organic matter is essential for site productivity.  It consists of decomposed and un-decomposed litter, old root materials, and the biomass of soil organisms.

Within the soil category of mineral soil, there are both fine and coarse fragments.  Coarse fragments would be things like small rocks and gravel or stones.  The amount of coarse fragments in a soil, which is usually expressed as a percentage of the total soil volume, influences a number of soil factors such as drainage, nutrient holding capacity, rooting volume, and trafficability.

Let's look in more detail at the other category, the fines.  Fine fragments can be further divided into three textures:  sand, silt, and clay.  Each texture has different properties which play different roles in seedling growth.  Planters quickly learn about these texture types, because they can really affect the speed of your planting.

Sand is the coarsest of the three fine fragment textures.  Sand is non-sticky and non-moldable and therefore won't compact easily.  It tends to be nutrient poor, but it provides good drainage and trafficability.  Planting on a sandy block, especially with a tiny bit of moisture to help it hold its shape, is one of the greatest pleasures of a planter's career.  It's like planting in soft butter.  Sand is very easy to plant in, but unfortunately, fairly rare.

Silt is mid-range in texture, between sand and clay.  Silt is almost soapy and slippery to the touch, and slightly sticky.  It's a bit more nutrient-rich than sand.  Silt is also quite nice to plant in.

Clay is the finest of the fine textures.  Clay is sticky, moldable, and hard when dry.  It's the most nutrient-rich of the three fine textures, and has the highest water holding capacity.  Unfortunately for planters, it's not easy to plant in.  You'll find it difficult to drive your shovel into clay, and you'll also have problems closing holes.

Loamy soils are a mix of all three fine textures.  They're considered to be ideal for seedling growth as they offer the advantages of all three textures.  Loamy soils are usually pretty good to plant in.

Depending on the contract, there will be varying points of view about the suitability of organic matter as a planting medium.  On the coast, planting in organics is highly encouraged for many species, but the coast is a lot different than the BC Interior.  In Alberta, you'll find that organic matter is often acceptable or encouraged as a planting medium.  In the BC Interior though, you'll find a range of planting specs.  In some places, such as Kamloops, planting in mineral soil is currently mandatory.  If you have a few inches of organics on top of mineral soil, you have to dig down through the organics before you're allowed to plant.  This is called screefing.  In many other places in the Interior, a healthy mix of organics and mineral soil is preferred, as long as you're not planting in chunky red rot.  Basically, the requirements vary so much from location to location that you'll just have to see what the local forester is asking for.


Seasons

Since we briefly referred to frost and dormancy already, let me quickly mention something about seasons.  Tree planting cannot be done year-round in Canada, so it's considered to be seasonal work.  Many planters refer to the length of their employment in seasons, rather than years.

In the BC Interior, when you talk about things in a physiological sense, relating to the growth of the trees, planting is broken down into a Spring season from late April to mid-June, and a Summer season from mid-June until August.  The trees planted each Spring season are grown in nurseries the previous year, and then put into frozen storage over the winter.  They get thawed out just before the planters start to plant them, so those Spring trees are slowly waking up out of winter dormancy.  The trees planted in the Summer season, however, are sown in March and grown in nursery beds until mid-June, so when they're delivered to planting camps in late June and July, they're not dormant at all.  These trees are called "hot lifted" trees.  They're fully awake, and growing as quickly as they can.

There isn't much visible difference between spring trees and hot-lifted trees.  The boxes that the seedlings come in will usually have a bag liner for spring trees, but there won't be bags with summer trees.  And you might occasionally get some frozen bundles with spring trees if the thaw request wasn't submitted early enough.  Companies usually ask for the nurseries or storage facilities to start thawing spring trees approximately ten days before the trees are delivered to the planting site.  Visually, spring and summer seedlings look the same.

In a physiological sense, there's a big difference between the Spring and Summer trees, but this distinction doesn't mean much to planters.  Most planters just refer to the whole calendar period from April through August as a single work period.  As an example, someone who started planting last year and who worked from early May until early August would say, “Last year was my first season.”

There is also a small Spring Coastal season from late January to mid-April, and a small Fall Coastal season from late August to early October.  The number of trees planted on the coast is very small in comparison to the volumes in the Interior, so only a relatively small number of planters work these two seasons.  My guess is that there are perhaps less than four hundred people who plant on the coast each year, and maybe more than six thousand people who plant in the Interior.  Competition for the coastal jobs is pretty fierce, so prices aren't as lucrative as they used to be.  Applicants for coastal jobs usually need at least four or five seasons of experience in the Interior before they can hope to be considered for a job.  Planting on the coast is much, much more difficult than planting in the Interior.




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Here’s an Audio version of this material, in case you want to listen while you’re driving, running, at work, or otherwise unable to read or watch video:




Click on the down-arrow icon in the upper right corner of the SoundCloud widget to download the mp3.


Once again, for further information about this series of tree planter training information, visit:



I encourage you to share this information with anyone else who might be interested.  Thanks for your interest and support!

-          Jonathan “Scooter” Clark





Saturday, February 11, 2017

Tree Planter Training 08 - Nature & The Environment

Although this blog is predominantly focused on my music and DJ’ing career, I also want to share some information about my other career:  Canadian Reforestation.

The information in this post is part of a training series from the Replant.ca website.  More information can be found at this link:



I’ll put the text and audio download link from this training module below, but let’s start with the YouTube video for the module:




Section 08 - “Nature & the Environment”


One of the best parts of tree planting is getting to spend time outdoors, enjoying the benefits of health and of some amazing scenery.  You’ll become more aware of plants, flowers, animals, and birds.  Of course, working outdoors is not always good.  You’ll have to deal with weather and temperature extremes, insects, and other challenges.  In this section, we’ll take a very quick look at some things you might see or experience on your blocks.


Weather


We’ve covered weather already in the section about hazards and safety, so we won’t get into too much detail here.  However, weather and temperature are definitely related to the environment.  You’ve already heard the warnings about being prepared for weather extremes, and how to minimize the chances of hypothermia or heat stroke.  We can’t reiterate this enough:  make sure you’re always prepared.  If you’re smart, you’ll always have good rain gear and extra dry clothing packed in a waterproof bag, and you’ll always have lots of water on hot days.

Also, it’s important to recognize that inhospitable weather is part of the job.  We work in rain.  We sometimes work in light snow, if the ground isn’t covered.  We work in winds, unless there’s a danger of trees toppling onto planters.  Probably at least a quarter of your work days will be spent in miserable weather.  You can’t afford to sit down and sulk, and wait it out.  You need to realize that you can make money in the rain, and you’re going to have to get used to working in it, even though it’s harder on morale.

Rain unfortunately also slows planting down for other reasons than just the fact that it can be depressing.  Access issues can be a problem in heavy rains, as muddier roads become dangerous or impassible.  Drivers need to slow down on wet roads.  Trucks may get stuck if drivers try to push too far into blocks without a solid road foundation.  Sometimes, it’s better to park the truck close to the block and walk the last few hundred meters.  You don’t want to get the truck stuck in bad puddles at the entrance to the block because you were too lazy to walk the last few hundred meters, and then have some sort of emergency and not be able to evacuate to medical aid.

Most planters don’t pay a lot of attention to the weather, other than to try to guess if it’s going to rain.  But the weather is an amazingly complex topic, far more complex than we’ll go into here.  However, I’ll leave you with a few interesting facts:
Low pressure systems usually result when warm air rises, lowering the atmospheric pressure on the rest of the air.  Low pressure systems usually feature precipitation, unlike high pressure systems which are usually nice weather.
Wind always circles counter-clockwise and inwards around a low pressure system in BC, when viewed from above.  Wind around a high pressure system always blows clockwise and outward.
If you’re standing with a steady wind at your back in BC, the low pressure system (and the area most likely to have rain) is therefore always on your left side.
There are ten major categories of clouds, and many variations on these ten basic groups, but only three of the cloud groups commonly produce precipitation.
Thunderstorms commonly occur because as the day progresses, the sun heats up the ground, causing air to rise and causing a low pressure system to form.  That’s why in some places, thunderstorms tend to happen at roughly the same time every afternoon.
Helicopters can fly better when the air pressure is more dense.  Therefore, helicopters fly better at lower altitudes.  Helicopters have a harder time when the temperature increases, because air rises and becomes less dense.  And finally, air saturated with water is surprisingly less dense than unsaturated air (this relates to molecular weights), so it’s harder for a helicopter to create lift on a muggy day than on a dry day.  In other words, four things that are challenges for helicopters all start with H:  heavy loads, high altitudes, hot temperatures, and humid air.
Between the start of your spring season and June 21st, sunrise happens about ten minutes earlier each week, and sunset happens about ten minutes later per week.  So in the six weeks leading up to June 21st, the days grow two hours longer - an extra hour of daylight in the morning, and an extra hour in the evening.  After June 21st, the days start growing shorter and the opposite is true. 


Determining Direction from the Sun


If you don't have a map or compass or GPS to help you, and it's a reasonably sunny day, and you know the approximate time of day, you can quickly point out approximately where north, south, east, and west are.  This may seem like magic, but it's not!

We all know that the sun always rises in the east.  If you're in the northern hemisphere, which includes all of British Columbia, then the sun is always approximately due south at noon.  There will be a slight error, especially closest to June 21st, which is related to seasonal precession and the tilting of the Earth’s axis.  However, your estimate will be quite close, within about twenty degrees at worst.  So let's assume that you're on a block, and you can see where the sun is.  If you know that it's approximately noon, then you can point at the sun and say that that direction is due south.  Knowing that, you can figure out north (behind you), east (to your left), and west (to your right).

Let's say that it's not noon.  Let's assume that it's mid-morning.  In the northern hemisphere, the sun always moves from left to right throughout the day.  So if it's not noon yet, you can look a bit to the right of where the sun is right now to make a guess of where it'll be at noon.  You can call that direction south.

If it's after lunch, then the sun will have already passed the mid-point of the sky.  Look to the left of the sun, and make an estimate of where it was a few hours ago, at noon.  You'll be able to point that direction out as due south.

Figuring out approximate directions is pretty easy if you can see the sun and if you know approximately what time of day it is, and you'll usually be within ten or twenty degrees of being correct once you practice a bit.


Plants


You’ll quickly learn that there are hundreds of types of grass, brush, and other vegetation that you’ll encounter.  Most vegetation is fairly benign, and you won’t need to be able to identify very many types of plants, but a few are good to know.  After a few years of experience, you’ll come to understand the seasonal progression, from relatively brown and barren blocks in early May, to thick green blocks covered in grass and other vegetation in July.

Grasses are usually annoying to planters.  Grass roots are fairly strong, so if you’re planting in areas with thick grass, the sod is going to be a problem if you need to screef down through the root mat.  If this is the case, consider using your shovel to screef, instead of your boot.  If you turn the shovel sideways as you’re screefing, you might be able to slice up the sod and remove it with less effort.

Devil’s Club is a thorny plant that you won’t want to run into.  This plant is found more commonly near the end of the season, and it usually grows in moist, shaded areas on blocks, where it can root in black organics.  The stalks are very easy to identify from a distance, as they’re one to two centimeters thick, and can occasionally grow to be as tall as a planter.  When they’re still alive, they’ll have huge broad green leaves, but even after the plant dies, the dry stalk retains its thorns for a while.  You’ll mostly run into devil’s club in gullies and along block edges.  Luckily, it’s so visible that it’s usually fairly easy to avoid.

Stingy Nettles are a lot worse than Devil’s Club.  The thorns on stingy nettles are very small and soft, almost like hair.  However, they release a chemical when you brush up against them, and this chemical causes a really intense itch in most people, which can last for a day or two.  You might not even notice immediately when you brush up against nettles, but within a few minutes, you’ll start getting itchy wherever your bare skin came into contact with the plant.  As hard as it is, try not to scratch or rub the itch, because that drives the chemicals deeper into your skin and makes the reaction worse.  Not everyone is affected by stingy nettles, but most people are, and being wet or sweaty often seems to make the reaction worse.  If you take anti-histamines, that might help reduce your urge to scratch.  There’s no real antidote or cure, except to wait a few hours or days for the itching to go away.  Unfortunately, stingy nettles are very hard to see.  They’re usually less than waist height, and look like very thin bare stalks, and several other types of vegetation look very similar.  You won’t run into them frequently in the spring, but they start to become more common in July in some areas.  Stingy nettles usually grow on black organics or soft, rich mineral soil.

You’ll see a lot of types of moss, especially any time that the ground becomes more moist or shaded.  If you ignore taxonomic classification and go with slang terms, there are two broad groups of moss in BC:  feather moss, and sphagnum.  Feather mosses are types of boreal forest moss that usually have features that look like small tree branches or feathers.  Sphagnum mosses are types of peat mosses, and often have star-like patterns.  The difference is that feather moss can survive in fairly dry conditions, whereas sphagnum needs constant moisture to survive.  Foresters will often allow you to plant trees in sphagnum moss, knowing that the ground will retain moisture even in dry months.  You’ll usually be allowed to plant the plug right into the moss rather than having to screef it away.  Feather moss, however, usually isn’t an acceptable planting medium, and you sometimes have to remove it and get down to dirt or organics below.

As the spring turns into July, you may start seeing several types of berries.  You might see small strawberries hidden on the ground.  Don’t eat berries unless you’re sure of what they are, since several types of berries are mildly toxic, and can cause stomach aches or even vomiting.  In late July, you may start running into raspberries on a lot of blocks.  Raspberries are quite safe to eat, although they’re a bit thorny to work through.  In mid-August, you may start seeing a lot of blueberries low to the ground, and Saskatoons (juneberries) on taller plants.  Both of these are safe to eat.  You may also occasionally see blackberries, huckleberries, and salmonberries.  Pay attention to your surroundings, because bears are often attracted to areas with large amounts of berries.

Fireweed is a common plant, which appears in July.  It grows quite quickly, covering blocks with stems that are three to four feet high, covered in pinkish or purplish flowers.  The only real drawback to fireweed, aside from it getting to be fairly thick at times, is that later in the summer the flowers die and turn to a cottony dander which floats around in the wind and gets into your eyes, nose, and mouth.

There are several benign types of plants that don’t really affect planters, but which you’ll see and learn to recognize, such as cow parsnip, licorice ferns, fiddleheads, and wild ginger.  You can google each of them to learn more.

You’ll also eventually learn to recognize a number of different types of common flowers, such as:  dandelions, wild roses, daisies, black-eyed susans, arnica, thimbleberry, trillium, camas, larkspur, buttercup, clover, violets, yarrow, skunk cabbage, tiger lily, and devil’s paintbrush.

Salal is a plant that most first-year planters won’t encounter, but which is important to coastal planters.  Salal has thick, waxy leaves, and cedar is about the only conifer that thrives in salal patches.  You’ve probably seen salal leaves before, because they’re commonly used around the world in floral arrangements.  Salal berries are quite edible, although you probably won’t see them until the fall.

Labrador tea is an annoying flower, because it has very tough roots that are hard to plant into.

There are dozens of types of mushrooms that you might find on the blocks.  Many are edible, such as black morels, but there are a few types that will make you moderately or severely sick.  If you’re interested in mushrooms, it’s a good idea to buy a guide book, just because there are so many unique varieties.  A great book to check out is “All That Rain Promises And More,” by David Arora.

Poison oak and poison ivy are less recognizable.  Luckily, they’re also not common on planting blocks.  You might very occasionally see them along the edges of blocks, in shaded areas.  If you brush up against them, the chemical toxins on these plants can give you some very bad rashes.  Luckily, it’s quite rare for planters to come into contact with either of these plants.

Giant hogweed is another plant to avoid, because it is completely covered in a sap that is fairly toxic and causes significant rashes, blisters, or other longer-term problems.  WorkSafe BC has even issued alerts about giant hogweed.  However, giant hogweed can be easily confused with cow parsnip, which doesn’t have toxic sap.

Don’t eat plants unless you’re absolutely positive about their identification.  Several common plants in BC are quite poisonous, such as false hellebore.


Animals


Many of the larger animals were covered in the section about hazards and safety, so we’ll try not to repeat anything.

You may see both grizzly bears and black bears on your blocks.  Black bears are far more common.  Each type of bear has some specific identifying characteristics, such as the shape of their face, or the shape of their back.  However, you shouldn’t use their size or the color of their fur as a reliable means to differentiate between the species.  Grizzlies and black bears sometimes react different to the presence of humans.  It’s important for planters to watch a Bear Aware video to get a better understanding of the differences between these two species.

Ungulates is a term that is used to encompass most of Canada’s larger four-legged animals.  Some of these animals may look cute, but they can be dangerous if they become aggressive, especially in the presence of young animals or during rutting season.  Almost everyone knows what a moose looks like.  There are generally two types of deer in Canada:  mule deer, and white-tails.  The mule deer has almost no obvious tail, and usually hops when it runs.  The black-tail deer is a subspecies of mule deer.  The white-tail deer, on the other hand, has a more conventional four-legged way of running, and when they are nervous, their white tail stands up like a warning flag.  Elk are very large animals that are close to the size of a moose, and are most frequently seen near Jasper, or in a few other locations throughout BC.  Caribou look similar to elk, but they’re usually only about half the size, or slightly larger than a mature deer.  Caribou, like elk, are not seen as frequently as moose or deer.  Finally, you may run into feral horses in many parts of BC.

There are three main types of wild cats in BC.  Cougars, also known as mountain lions, are the largest.  The largest cougars can weigh 200 pounds or more, and could potentially be fairly dangerous.  However, they’re also very reclusive, and most planters will never see a cougar in their career.  Bobcats and lynx are much more common, and they’re also much smaller and haven’t been noted as being dangerous to planters.  These two cats are also easy to confuse. Bobcats look fairly similar to a large house cat, and have striped bands on their tails.  Lynx have crazy-looking faces, with big tufts of fur that you don’t see on household cats, and they don’t have stripes on their tails.  The bobcat is more commonly found in southeastern BC, whereas the lynx is common in most parts of the province except for coastal areas.

There are very few smaller animals that could theoretically pose a danger to planters.  You might get sprayed by a skunk, or get poked by quills if you run into a porcupine, but we rarely see either of these animals, and I’ve never heard of a planter being harmed by either.  Wolverines are another exceptionally fierce animal, but few planters will ever see a wolverine, and I’ve certainly never heard of a planter being attacked by one.

Of course, there are also many benign small animals.  You’ll probably see many rabbits, hares, mice, moles, voles, squirrels, rats, gophers, beavers, and other small animals during your career.  None of them should be immediately dangerous to planters, although several of these animals can carry various diseases, and mice are especially dirty little animals.


Birds


A lot of birds nest on the ground in the blocks that you’ll be planting, so don’t be surprised to frequently discover small nests with eggs.  Looking above you, you’ll often see various types of larger predatory birds, including bald eagles, golden eagles, goshawks, falcons, and a dozen different types of hawks.  Sometimes, you’ll even see owls.

Probably the only birds that planters need to be wary of are crows and ravens.  This is because these birds can be mischievous and troublesome, and will tear apart garbage boxes and steal lunches from caches.  These birds are incredibly intelligent.  I’ve seen them open zippers and undo clasps that planters even have problems unfastening, and they’ll often open up day-bags to pull out food.  It’s sometimes a bit tricky to distinguish between the two species.  Ravens are usually larger.  If you see them flying overhead, ravens have four “fingers” of feather at the tip of each wing, whereas crows have five fingers.  However, the most obvious difference is their voice.  American crows make a higher-pitched sharp “caw” sound, whereas ravens have a deeper, hoarse croak.  Finally, crows have a fairly smooth fan-shaped tail, while ravens have more of pointed V-shaped tail.
  


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Here’s an Audio version of this material, in case you want to listen while you’re driving, running, at work, or otherwise unable to read or watch video:




Click on the down-arrow icon in the upper right corner of the SoundCloud widget to download the mp3.


Once again, for further information about this series of tree planter training information, visit:



I encourage you to share this information with anyone else who might be interested.  Thanks for your interest and support!

-          Jonathan “Scooter” Clark





Tree Planter Training 07 - Map Reading

Although this blog is predominantly focused on my music and DJ’ing career, I also want to share some information about my other career:  Canadian Reforestation.

The information in this post is part of a training series from the Replant.ca website.  More information can be found at this link:



I’ll put the text and audio download link from this training module below, but let’s start with the YouTube video for the module:




Section 07 - “Map Reading”


In this section we'll learn a few basics about Map Reading.  We'll also talk about how to understand map directions, coordinate systems, topography, contour lines, scales, and geo-referenced digital maps.


All planters should have a basic understanding of maps and cartography.  One of the benefits of becoming a tree planter is that you'll learn a lot about the world around you, including things like being able to tell directions without a compass.

Let's start with the very basics.  On most maps, all the writing is oriented the same way, so you can determine a "top" and a "bottom" to the map.  If the map doesn't indicate otherwise, the top of the map is always north.  This is the case in probably 99% of maps.  Occasionally, for some odd reason, north will face a different direction, but if it does, there should be a little compass rose symbol or arrow on the map that points to north.


GPS System


Most maps that planters use in British Columbia will also have coordinates on them.  There are literally thousands of different coordinate systems in place throughout the world.  Some of them were created centuries ago by early explorers and surveyors, and it's safe to say that most are extremely confusing.  Within BC, you'll normally just encounter one of the most well-known systems used today, a traditional Latitude and Longitude system.  The Latitude and Longitude coordinates will be in "northings" and "westings" when you refer to coordinates within British Columbia.

Northings, or the distance north of the equator, range from about 49 degrees at the bottom of BC to about 60 degrees at the top of the province.  These are also known as the latitude.  Westings range from approximately 114 to 140 degrees, with the lower numbers on the east side bordering Alberta.  These are known as the longitude.  If you have problems with respect to latitude and longitude in terms of remembering which is which, think of the word "flatitude" instead of latitude.  Latitude lines are flat lines, rather than vertical, when you look at a map.  If you're ever using software or a GIS system that doesn't allow you to type in the letters N or W to represent northing and westing, use positive numbers for the northings, and use a negative sign for the westings.  The number representing the latitude always comes first, before the number for the longitude.

If you get a block map, sometimes it will display the coordinates on the sides of the map, in a scale.  As mentioned, the latitude is the distance above or below the equator, hence the reason why latitudes are always "north" in British Columbia.  That's why the latitudes run up and down the sides of a map, even though a line of latitude is flat, running from left to right on a normal map.  The longitude is the distance to the east or west of the Prime Meridian that runs north/south down through England, hence why longitudes are always "west" in British Columbia.  That's why lines of longitude are vertical, and the longitude numbers always run along the bottom or top of a map.

In addition to the possibility of seeing latitudes and longitudes listed on the sides of your map, there may be a single point coordinate (latitude and longitude) listed somewhere in the map's key.  That is probably for a point in the very center of the map, although occasionally, it will refer to a random point somewhere on the map where a surveyor decided to pick what's known as a "tie point" to start plots or something similar.

The Global Positioning Satellite system, also known as GPS, is a network of approximately thirty satellites that are operated by the US government.  If you're at any point on Earth with a GPS device that can "see" three satellites, you'll be able to determine your exact position in terms of latitude and longitude.  Add a fourth satellite, and you should also be able to get your elevation above sea level.  That's a simplification, but good enough for our purposes.

The GPS system (also known as NAVSTAR) is the American variety of GNSS, or Global Navigation Satellite System.  Russia has a GNSS called GLONASS.  Other political entities (Japan, China, India, and the EU) are also in the process of deploying their own GNSS systems.

GPS coordinates are typically listed in degrees, minutes, and seconds.  These refer to units of arc, or distance on the surface of the Earth.  An arc-degree covers a very large amount of distance.  The exact distance depends on where you're located on Earth, but an arc-degree can sometimes be as large as 65 kilometers or more.  An arc-minute is smaller, maybe around a kilometer wide depending on your location.  An arc-second is a pretty narrow range, only maybe around twenty to thirty meters wide, although again, this distance depends on your exact location.  There are sixty arc-seconds in an arc-minute, and sixty arc-minutes in an arc-degree, just like in time-keeping.  There are 360 arc-degrees to cover the entire surface of the Earth, just like there are 360 degrees in a circle.  A lot of the time, people drop the "arc" prefix when they're talking about GPS coordinates, and just use the terms degrees, minutes, and seconds.

Sometimes, the written format of a GPS coordinate is written using specific symbols for degrees, minutes, and seconds.  Degrees are symbolized by a small superscripted circle.  Minutes are symbolized by an apostrophe.  Seconds are symbolized by a quotation mark symbol.  So for example, 54 degrees, 36 minutes, and 30 seconds would be listed as 54o 36' 30".  At other times, decimal points will be used for either just the seconds, or sometimes for the minutes and seconds.  In this example, if just the seconds were converted to decimal, the reading would be 54o 36.5'.  That's because thirty seconds is 0.5 (or 30/60) of a minute.  If the minutes were also converted to decimal, the reading would be 54.65o.  That's because 36 minutes is 0.6 (or 36/60) of a degree.  If you have a GPS device, you can go into the settings and pick the display format that you want to use.


Other Map Features


Your map may have a lot of curvy lines drawn all over it.  These are called Contour lines.  This means that the map is a topographic map, or one that identifies the topography of the area being mapped.  The best part about a contour map or topo map is that it lets you understand the hills and valleys on a block, because the contour lines indicate the elevations throughout the block.  Each contour line represents a specific elevation, say perhaps 1380m.  Contour lines are usually spaced 10m or 20m apart on a block map, or perhaps 20m to 100m apart on a larger regional map.  The closer the lines are together, the steeper the slope.

If your map doesn't have contour lines, but it has streams or creeks identified, there's a good chance that you can figure out a rough idea of the hills and valleys on your own.  Streams and creeks are usually identified in blue.  Look for a blue line, and follow that line to where it ends.  If the line just stops suddenly, that's the highest part of the stream.  Water flows downhill, so follow the creek away from the starting point where the stream officially begins, and you'll see where the block gets lower and lower in elevation.  Perhaps the stream or creek will end in a blue pond, or join another larger stream.

Sometimes you can also guess approximate elevations on a map just by looking at the roads.  The reason for this is because in hilly country, the odds are slightly higher that the roads on the block will generally be going uphill rather than downhill.  Of course, it is possible that roads can go downhill upon entering a block, but that probably happens less than one third of the time, whereas more than two thirds of the time the roads are either flat or go uphill.  The reason for this is simple.  Logging companies like to harvest the easiest wood first, closest to the towns and mills.  The easier wood near the valley bottoms was probably harvested years ago, and the logging companies are now making their way further and further up into the steeper ground.  Also, it's easiest to build main roads along the valley bottoms and have then branches going up into the blocks in the hills.  This method certainly isn't foolproof, but if you have to guess, you can sometimes increase your odds of guessing correctly to be slightly better than just 50/50.


Understanding Scales


Most maps have a small "scale" on them.  This will be a number expressed as a ratio.  On a map showing a small area such as a single block, the ratio is often 1:5,000 or 1:10,000 or, for a very large block, maybe 1:20,000.  On a larger "area map" which shows a larger region of many blocks, the scale might be 1:30,000 or even 1:100,000 or larger.

This scale is a multiplier to indicate how much real distance is covered by each part of the map.  You multiply the distance on the map by the large number in the ratio, to find the real-world distance.  Usually, we think in terms of centimeters on the map.  Therefore, if you were to have a map with a ratio of 1:5,000 then one centimeter on the map represents 5,000 centimeters in the real world.  Ten centimeters on the map would be ten times that amount, or 50,000 centimeters in the bush.  Now obviously, trying to measure real-world distances in centimeters is an exercise in futility.  So you can convert those numbers to meters simply by dividing by 100, since there are 100cm in a meter.  In other words, in the example where 1cm gave us 5,000 centimeters, that's equivalent to 50 meters.  In the second example of 10 centimeters on the map, that becomes 50,000 centimeters or 500 meters in the bush.

These scales are really useful because they can help a planter or a foreman plan for how many trees need to go into an area.  Let's say that you're looking at a map with your foreman, and you've identified exactly where your cache is located on the road on the map.  Let's also say that you're looking at filling a big pocket.  You can get a ruler out and measure from your cache to the back of the pocket.  Let's assume in this case that it's 4 centimeters on the map from your cache to the back of your pocket, and let's assume that the scale on the map is 1:10,000.  This means that the 4 centimeters on the map represents 400m in real-world distance.  Let's also assume that your average spacing on this block needs to be 2.5m between trees.  To go 400m to the back of your pocket, you need to bag up with 160 trees.  You get this number by taking the distance (400m) and dividing your average spacing between trees (2.5m).  But you'll also want to be able to plant back to your cache, instead of dead-walking, so you should take a minimum of about 320 trees in order to plant into the back, and then work back to your cache.  If you can carry even more than 320 trees in your bags, that's even better, because you can plant the extras at the back before you turn around and plant back to your cache.


Geo-Referenced Digital Maps


One of the biggest revolutions in the planting industry since the introduction of LFH planting in the mid-1990's has been the introduction of digital maps, and in particular, geo-referencing.

When a digital map is geo-referenced, this means that it has actual GPS location metadata embedded within the file.  Certain apps can load these maps into your mobile device and correlate the map with the actual current location of your mobile device, based on the GPS receiver in the device.  If the app determines that you're actually "on" the map, it will display your exact location on the map with a little marker indicating where you're located, perhaps a blue dot or something similar.  As you move around the block with your mobile device, your location indicator moves around on the map.  It's just like using Google Maps or other similar services, except that these geo-referenced PDF's are generated by your silviculture forester and can show your planting blocks in great detail.  Naturally, Google Maps focuses on towns and cities and government-maintained roads, so it usually isn't any good on remote planting blocks.  At the moment, an app called Avenza PDF Maps seems to be the most popular way to work with geo-referenced maps.

Another bonus of apps that use geo-referenced maps is that you can do the same sort of distance calculations as what I explained in the example with the ruler a few minutes ago.  You just tap two spots on the map (presumably your cache and the back of your piece) and the app tells you the exact distance between the two points.  You can also outline an area, such as your entire piece, and the app will do an area calculation for you.  Let's say that your area calculation shows that your piece is approximately 1.2Ha in size.  If you're aiming for 2000 stems/Ha and you do a good job with your density, you can assume that your 1.2Ha piece should hold approximately 2400 trees.  Being able to make calculations like this really helps with planning.


Always Know Where You Are


Understanding maps and coordinate systems can be far more confusing than what I've explained here, because the topic can be incredibly complex.  However, if you master the basics that I've explained here, you'll understand all that you need to know to be comfortable with looking at a map and trying to figure out where you are.  It's important that your foreman should always leave a map on the dashboard of the truck, so if there's an emergency and the foreman is incapacitated, the crew will be able to figure out exactly where they are and relay that information to outside help.  If there isn’t such a map on the dash, ask your foreman to leave one there for emergencies, with appropriate contact information to reach outside help.  If the foreman is the person who’s seriously hurt, he or she will be really glad that they left this information for the planters.  Most companies require that each crew have a written Emergency Response Plan with all of this information, and with instructions on what to do in an emergency.

As a planter, you should always know the number of the block that you're working on.  A great idea is for the foreman to use a dry-erase marker to write the block number on the rear-view mirror of each truck every morning.  You should also be able to find the block number on the map on the dashboard.



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-          Jonathan “Scooter” Clark