Showing posts with label trees. Show all posts
Showing posts with label trees. Show all posts

Sunday, September 22, 2019

Sponsor Tree Planting

Although I'm posting this in my music blog, this is not music-related.  This post is related to my other work doing reforestation in Canada.  It's important because planting trees is significant for the planet.  And coincidentally, my seasonal work planting trees is what has let me spend so much time over the years doing DJ'ing, music production, and creating training videos on YouTube.

Most of my tree planting career has been devoted to planting trees as part of a long-term cycle of harvesting wood for the pulp and lumber industries in Canada.  Various organizations cut the trees, then myself and other planter go into those areas and plant new seedlings there.  This type of work is very much like farming, although on a much longer time scale between crop rotations.

I've always wanted to set up a separate company which focuses on planting trees that will never be commercially harvested in the future.  And recently, I finally made that happen.  To capitalize on the very well-known website (Replant.ca) that I've been running for many years, I called the new company "Replant.ca Environmental."  I'm building this company along with Laura Monk (one of my key planting friends) plus a couple other experienced associates from my west coast reforestation work.

Replant.ca Environmental focuses on planting trees for carbon capture and environmental reasons.  We're building community forests and forest reserve areas in Atlantic Canada which will be protected from future commercial harvesting activities.  The company is run on a donation/sponsorship model, and addresses the desire of many global citizens who want to make a small contribution to help fight climate change, but who might not be able to do things like tree planting near their own homes.

This year (2019) is the first year that we've been operating this business, but we expect to grow it well past 150,000 trees in 2020, and to more than double that number in 2021.  Ultimately, we hope to enable a serious contribution toward the global goal of planting one trillion trees, to fight climate change.

If you're a music fan who has appreciated any of the music that I've shared, or if you found this post because of a link from one of my YouTube tutorials, thanks for reading this far.  If you'd like to show some support for my music work, I'd really appreciate if you could check out our website for Replant.ca Environmental, share the website address with some of your friends, and consider making a small donation toward the planting of some trees.  It is the many small donations that we get from readers like you that are making a very big difference in helping us plant as many trees as possible!

Here's a link to our site:   replant.ca/environmental

Thanks so much for your support!
 - Jonathan Clark (DJ Bolivia)










I'm Jonathan Clark, known online as DJ Bolivia.  Do you want to learn more about DJ'ing and music production?  If so, visit:



If you happen to enjoy techno tracks, most of my tracks are available as free downloads from this link:



Thanks so much for visit, and for your support!  I really appreciate the fan base that I've been able to build up over the years.

Also, if you want to visit any of my other sites, here are a few links:
    YouTube:  youtube.com/djbolivia
    SoundCloud:  soundcloud.com/djbolivia
    Blogger:  djbolivia.blogspot.com
    Main Site:  www.djbolivia.ca

Wednesday, February 22, 2017

Tree Planter Training 16 - Spacing, Density, and Excess

Although this blog is predominantly focused on my music and DJ’ing career, I also want to share some information about my other career:  Canadian Reforestation.

The information in this post is part of a training series from the Replant.ca website.  More information can be found at this link:



I’ll put the text and audio download link from this training module below, but let’s start with the YouTube video for the module:




Section 16 - “Spacing, Density, and Excess”

In this section we'll talk about Spacing, Density, and Excess.  We'll learn how these things are measured, and we'll understand why targets are set in silviculture prescriptions.  We'll talk about compliance systems, and how, as a planter, you can leverage an understanding of these systems into increased productivity and higher earnings.  If you have a proper understanding of what you can and can't get away with, with respect to spacing and density, your job will become a lot easier.


What's In A Plot?

When a forester takes a plot, he or she is not just checking the quality of the trees.  There's a lot of additional information gathered.  In rough terms, the information collected in each plot includes:
1.  The number of trees planted in the plot.
2.  The number of plantable spots.
3.  The number of excess trees.
4.  The number of satisfactorily planted trees.
5.  The number of unsatisfactorily planted trees, and reasons why they were unsatisfactory (this is the quality assessment part of the plot).
6.  Any other comments about the plot in general.

As you can see, most of these measurements are not even directly concerned with quality!


Plotted versus Planted Density

Density is a very important measurement that tells you the approximate number of trees per area on a block or a part of a block.  Since we usually use the metric system, it's usually described as the number of seedlings, or “stems” per hectare.  A hectare is 100m by 100m in size, or 10,000 square meters, and of course, it doesn't have to be a square. Earlier, I mentioned the fact that a plot within the 704 system is equal to 1/200th of a hectare.  Because of this, if you know that you have a number of plots that average 8 trees each, and a plot is 1/200th of a hectare, then when you multiply the two numbers out, you'll realize that you have approximately 1600 trees per hectare.  This density, which is determined by multiplying the average number of trees counted per plot by 200, is usually called the “plotted density.” Sometimes it's called the “plot density” or "sample density" or “statistical density” of the block.

There's another way to arrive at a slightly different density calculation:  you can take the total number of trees that were actually planted on a block and divide it by the number of hectares.  For instance, if you have a block on which you've planted 15,000 trees, and the size of the block is 10.0 hectares, then you have a density of 1500 trees per hectare.  This density, calculated from the claimed planting totals, is usually called the “planted density.” It may also be referred to as the “claimed density” or “theoretical density.”  Of course, if the planters made a mistake in their tallies, this number won't quite be correct.

It's important to understand right now that there's a significant distinction between the plotted density, which is a statistical measurement, and the planted density, which is the true density (if the planting totals are correct).  Although each density is a measure of the number of trees per area of block, and although each may be accurate by itself, the two types of density measure slightly different items.  It's possible for the plotted density be different than the planted density, and yet for each number to be “correct.”  A correct plotted density merely refers to a plotted density that is calculated correctly.  It doesn't mean that the plotted density accurately reflects the true planted density of seedlings on the block.  If you truly understand the distinction between plotted and planted densities, that distinction will form the basis for starting to understand a lot of other nuances of most quality systems.  Understanding this distinction also helps you start to learn some advanced density management issues, including issues as varied as manipulating the system to improve your quality results as a planter, and for management, investigating the likelihood that planters are stashing trees.

Some planters, especially beginning planters, will focus entirely on their planting quality, and pay very little attention to the planting densities that they achieve.  This is possibly one of the biggest mistakes that a beginning planter can make.  I simply can't over-emphasize the importance that density will play in your planting career.  Look at it this way:  making a quality mistake is not “irrevocable.”  Planting a tree poorly, so it's considered a fault tree, will unquestionably reduce its chances for long-term survival.  Even if it does survive, the tree may not achieve its maximum potential growth.  However, a tree CAN recover from many types of quality faults.  A quality fault simply means that the odds are stacked a bit higher against the tree.  A tree in a dry area may not grow well until it gets heavy rains.  A tree in a poor microsite may not grow as fast as one in a better microsite.  A tree with non-vertical or “J” roots may not establish a strong root system as quickly as it could have.  A leaning tree may take some time to straighten up.  Despite all this, a tree can often recover from a quality fault.

With density problems, the story is different.  Once a tree is planted in a particular microsite, it can never move.  Quality faults, if they don't kill the tree, may only be temporary setbacks in the total life of the tree.  But trees can't move by themselves, so density problems are permanent.  The vast majority of foresters are very intelligent, and any forester with any common sense recognizes the importance of density, and will be far more tolerant of a few minor quality issues than they will be of density issues.  

Another thing to consider is that most common quality systems are designed so that when a planter's density starts to get really out of line, it also starts to have a negative effect on your quality percentage.  For instance, under the FS 704 system, planting low density will eventually result in missed spots, which is an automatic quality fault.  Under the same system, planting high density will usually result in an excess fine, which again is not good.


Target Spacing & Minimum Spacing

Ok, now that you understand the basics of density, I'm going to explain two new issues:  target spacing, and minimum spacing.  Sometimes, target spacing is called the "contract" spacing.  On any given contract, a forester will have come up with an assessment of how many trees they want planted in an area.  If the area is rich and non-competitive and the trees are expected to do well, a “low” density of 1200 stems/Ha may be a good goal.  In areas with poor soil, or high competition from existing vegetation, a higher density of 2400 stems/Ha may be a better goal.  On some contracts, the density that the forester wants to see may not be a single number for the entire contract, but may vary from block to block, or may even vary from section to section within a block.  No matter what the desired density is, it's very difficult for a forester to get good results by telling a planter to go out and, “plant about 2000 trees per hectare.”  This instruction is too vague, unless you understand how to apply that number to the immediate area that you're currently planting in.  Even after all the years that I've spent planting, I can't tell you exactly how big a hectare is at a glance, nor could I do a very good job of just guessing how far apart the individual trees need to be in order to fit exactly 2,000 trees into a hectare.  I need a more tangible and achievable immediate measure to aim for.

Depending on the target density, it's fairly easy to use a chart to determine what the average inter-tree spacing needs to be to achieve the desired density.  Once you have a tangible inter-tree distance to aim for, you have a realistic chance of meeting the forester's goals for density.  For example, if every tree were 2.4 meters away from every other tree in a perfect grid, the resulting density would be 2000 stems/Ha.  If every tree were 2.7 meters apart in a perfect grid, the resulting density would be 1600 stems/Ha.  Your foreman can tell you the average spacing that will result in the target density that the forester is looking for.  Foremen and supervisors have charts to help us know what our target spacing needs to be.  Let me show you a couple of common numbers right now:

2000 stems/Ha = 10 trees per plot = 2.4m average between trees
1800 stems/Ha =   9 trees per plot = 2.5m average between trees
1600 stems/Ha =   8 trees per plot = 2.7m average between trees
1400 stems/Ha =   7 trees per plot = 2.9m average between trees
1200 stems/Ha =   6 trees per plot = 3.1m average between trees
1000 stems/Ha =   5 trees per plot = 3.4m average between trees
 800 stems/Ha =   4 trees per plot = 3.8m average between trees

For a first year planter in the northern BC Interior, you're probably not going to see low density numbers very often.  Those are typically target densities for coastal contracts.  A planting density of 1200 stems/Ha or less is quite rare in the Interior.  Trees are much less expensive to plant in the Interior than on the coast, so foresters there prefer to aim for higher densities, to maximize the chance of meeting Free Growing survey requirements.  In the Interior, you're most likely to see target densities of 1400 stems/Ha and above, and sometimes as high as 2400 stems/Ha in pine plantations.

Of course, when you're planting a block, the trees are not going to end up in a perfect grid.  Nor would you want to try to plant them in a perfect grid, because to get it exactly right would mean having a tape measure and measuring the distance between each tree.  That would slow you down, and you'd plant less, which means that you'd make less money.  The great thing is that your trees don't need to be exactly the same distance apart every time.  If some are closer to each other, and some are further away from each other, you can still get the right overall density by making sure that ON AVERAGE, the trees are the proper target distance from each other.  So to make your life easy, think of the “target spacing” as the optimum average distance between trees that is required for you to hit the correct overall density.  You can plant some closer together, and some further apart, as long as the average is correct.

There are two benefits to being allowed to vary your distance between trees.  The first is a benefit for the trees.  Since you have a variance, you can select the best microsites for the trees.  The forester wants you to put the trees in the best microsites, to maximize the long-term crop yield on the plantation, so it's in his or her best interests to allow you this variance in spacing.  The second benefit is for the planter, and it's a very obvious one.  If you're allowed some leeway in picking and choosing the spots to put your trees, you can select the easiest spots to plant each tree.  You want to find the easy spots to plant in.  As much as being successful at tree planting means a lot of hard work, you shouldn't be doing unnecessary work.

Of course, there are limits on how much variance you're allowed.  That's where the minimum spacing comes into play.  You won't be allowed to plant two trees closer together than the minimum spacing, or one of them will be faulted.  So for instance, if you have a contract or block where the target spacing is 2.7 meters and the minimum is 2.1 meters, then you'll want to plant your trees about 2.7 meters apart on average, with no two trees ever being closer than 2.1 meters together.

Many planters at this point will ask an intelligent question:  “If there's a minimum spacing, is there also a maximum spacing?”  There isn't, at least, not exactly.  Instead, there's a different measurement which effectively mimics the effect of having some sort of maximum spacing.  It depends on the quality system you're working under, but it usually relates to having a “missed spot” rather than “wide spacing.”  I'll explain that in more detail in a few minutes.

When it comes to density, you need to learn pretty quickly to get it right the first time.  Density problems cannot be “fixed” by replanting, unless you pull every tree up from an area and start again, which is unthinkable.  It only takes a minute or so for a planter to quickly throw a plot on himself or herself, and to count the number of trees in the plot.  If you want to be a good planter, or if you already consider yourself to be a good planter, you're only fooling yourself if you think that you don't need to throw plots on yourself to check your density throughout the day.  I personally recommend that all planters take at least four quick plots on themselves every day.  I do it.  In the long term, it's worth my while.


Excess

Many planters find the concept of density to be fairly easy to grasp, but they have much more difficulty with excess.  Some planters mistakenly think that the two are the same thing, and that high density is the same as excess.  However, this is another area where understanding the fine distinction between the two concepts will help a good planter become a great planter.  High density and excess are somewhat similar.  But high density happens when you have too many trees planted throughout the block consistently.  Excess happens when you have too many trees through just some parts of the block, specifically where the plots land.  For the mathematicians out there, let me give you a better definition:  excess penalizes you if you have a high standard deviation.

The easiest way to explain the difference between excess and high density is probably with a very simple mathematical example.  First, let me explain how excess is calculated.  In most systems, each plot on a block is considered individually.  If the plot that you're looking at has more planted trees than the target density, then each "extra” tree above the target density will be considered to be an “excess” tree.  Once the forester knows how many excess trees there are in total in the series of plots, that number is divided by the total number of planted trees in the set of plots to come up with the excess percentage.  Let's look at an example:

- First, assume that the target density is 2000 stems/Ha.  This means that if you divide by 200, because a plot is 1/200th of a hectare, you should be hoping to get a total of exactly ten trees in each plot.
- Let's assume that we have two blocks.  Each is two hectares, and to keep things simple, we'll say that each block needs two plots.  Under the FS 704 system, a block that small actually needs a minimum of five plots, but we're going to ignore that rule for this example.  Two plots per block.
- On block “A” we get 10 trees in the first plot and 10 trees in the second plot.
- On block “B” we get 8 trees in the first plot and 12 trees in the second plot.
- Let's assume that we've been told that 4000 trees were planted in block “A” and 4000 trees were also planted in block “B.”
- Although it isn't important to this example, I'm going to tell you that the trees in block A were planted with fairly even spacing, hence the reason that each of the two plots got 10 trees, while the spacing on block B was a lot more varied, with some sections having closer or “tighter” spacing than other parts of the block.

Block “A” Calculations:
- The total number of trees in the plots is 20.  There are two plots.  Therefore, there's an average of 10.0 trees per plot.  Multiply this by 200 and you get a plotted density of 2000 stems/Ha.
- The total number of excess trees in the plots is 0.  The first plot had 10 trees, and you don't get an excess tree until you go “one tree over” the target.  Therefore, that plot did not have an excess tree.  The second plot was exactly the same:  no excess trees.  Therefore, the total excess for the block is 0 trees out of 20 trees planted, or 0.0%.

Block “B” Calculations:
- The total number of trees in the plots is 20.  There are two plots.  Therefore, there's an average of 10.0 trees per plot.  Again, multiply this by 200 and you get a plotted density of 2000 stems/Ha.
- The first plot had 8 trees, so there are no excess trees in that plot.  However, the second plot had 12 trees, which is two trees higher than the target number of trees per plot, or two excess trees.
- With no excess in the first plot, and two excess trees in the second plot, the total excess for the block is 2 trees.  You then divide that number by the total trees planted, which was twenty, and you get an excess percentage of 10.0%.

Hopefully this numerical example starts to illustrate the concept.  The planted density on each of the two blocks is exactly the same, because each had 4000 trees planted over 2.0 hectares, or 2000 stems/Ha.  The plotted density on each of the two blocks is exactly the same, because each block had 20 trees total between the two plots, or 10.0 trees per plot, which when multiplied by 200 gives you 2000 stems/Ha.

By the way, in this particular example, the planted density is exactly equal to the plotted density.  Remember that it doesn't always turn out this way, depending on where the plots fall and how many trees are in each plot.  In fact, it's most common for these two numbers to be different, although they are usually quite close to each other.

Even though the plotted density of both blocks is the same, and the planted density is also the same on each block, the excess on each block is NOT the same.  The first block was planted with very consistent spacing, and did not end up having any excess trees.  The second block had inconsistent spacing, and ended up getting a few excess trees in the plots, resulting in an excess percentage of 10.0%.

Under the FS 704 system, a company is not penalized for excess charges on a block if the overall excess percentage is less than 7%.  In other words, you can have a small amount of excess and not get penalized for it.  This is fair, because even the best planters will be forced to deal with a small amount of variety in their spacing.  And to be honest, the foresters are ok with a bit of variance in your spacing too, because they want to see you looking for the best spots for the trees.


Missed Spot – A Quality Fault

Earlier we learned that wide spacing is not necessarily a quality fault.  This is especially true if the spacing is consistently just a bit wider than the target spacing.  Wide spacing only becomes a problem when it gets to be too extreme.  There's a point when your spacing between two trees becomes so wide that you could have fit another tree in without it being too close to either of the other trees.  At that point, it's considered to be a missed spot rather than just wide spacing.  This is equivalent to a fault on the plot sheet.  There's no specific code for this.  You'll still get penalized though, because you don't have enough "satisfactorily planted trees" to match the number of "plantable spots."  These are two terms that we'll look at later.

Basically, let's take a quick example where the target spacing is 2.7m and the minimum spacing is 2.0m.  To keep things simple, let's work in just one dimension, ie. going in a straight line, although of course on the block you also have to think of trees beside you, not just the ones ahead and behind.  Let's assume that as you're planting along in a line, you plant two trees that are 3.8m apart.  This is wider than the target spacing of 2.7m.  But wide spacing is not a fault.

Now let's try to figure out if we have a missed spot.  Let's see if we can stick an extra tree between the two trees.  We'll put it in the exact center of those two trees, so the new tree is as far as possible away from the original two trees.  Since they were 3.8m apart, the tree in the exact middle will be 1.9m away from each of the other two.  That's under the minimum spacing of 2.0m.  In other words, it's not possible to legally put another tree between your first two trees without it being closer to an existing tree than permitted.  If you can't legally add that tree, it's not a missed spot.  The spacing is just wide spacing, no penalty.

Let's look at a second example, where you plant two trees that are 4.8m apart.  That's really quite wide, if the target is only 2.7m.  Once again, let's try to put a tree between the first two.  If you put it exactly in the middle, then the new tree is 2.4m away from each of the other two.  This is above the minimum.  In fact, it's pretty close to the proper target spacing.  Since another tree can legally be added in the middle without causing Minimum Spacing problems, you'll be considered to have a Missed Spot.  There should have been a tree between the original two trees, so you're faulted.

Of course, in considering whether or not you have a missed spot, the forester also looks at other factors.  Is the spot that was missed good enough to allow for a tree to be planted properly?  If not, say for example there was a huge puddle right there, then the forester will not penalize you for missing the spot.  The rationale in this example is that you skipped the spot because you had no choice, so you shouldn't be penalized.


Penalties

So overall, there are three different ways that you can be penalized for planting either too many trees or not enough trees in an area:
- Missed Spots
- Excess
- Low Density

Missed spots come into play when your spacing is wide and erratic, because you'll end up leaving gaps that should have had trees.  For a planter, that's not good.  If you walk over a spot where you should have planted a tree, you just missed out on an opportunity to make a bit of money.  You don't get paid to walk around.

Excess comes into play when your spacing is erratic, and you put too many trees into a small area that a plot lands in.  Now to be honest, it's usually good for planters to have slightly higher density than the target, and if a little bit of excess is the result, that's fine.  As long as your crew's excess on the block is under 7%, your company isn't penalized.

Low density isn't something that I've mentioned yet.  I did say that wide spacing wasn't a quality fault.  But because foresters want to see a sufficient number of trees in their blocks, they often add a clause to the contract that gives a minimum acceptable density tied to payment.  This is often a number like 200 stems/Ha under the target density, or alternatively, it could be a percentage amount such as ten percent under.  So for example, a contract might say that the target density on a block is 1800 stems/Ha, but if the final density is under by more than 10%, or less than 1620 stems/Ha, there is no payment.  If your crew does end up planting less than 1620 stems/Ha, there's a simple solution:  you'll be sent back to add some more trees, until the density is brought up over the minimum.

If you have a smart foreman, he or she will probably do a quick calculation as soon as the block is done to see what the planted density is.  If it's low, say around 1590 stems/Ha or slightly lower, that will indicate that the block is likely going to be a problem, because the plotted density will probably be very similar.  In that case, it would be smart for the foreman to tell the crew to go back out and put in a few more trees as a precautionary measure.  It's easier to add more trees to a block when you're already there, instead of coming back later.  And if your planted density for the block is obviously low, it's smart to just fix the problem before the plots are even taken.

Is there a High Density penalty?  Not really.  Foresters get you on the excess charge, so they don't worry about it.  Many foresters are Ok with you planting slightly higher density than the target, as long as it's consistent.  They just don't like inconsistent high density, which is why the excess calculation meets their needs as a way of making sure you don't plant far more trees in an area than you're supposed to.  And even density that is perfectly consistent can still give you an excess charge if the density starts to get too high.


I'm sure that at this point, many of you are sitting there with your eyes glazed over, completely lost.  That's understandable.  This is the sort of material that you should revisit a couple times per season for your first couple years, until you fully understand the math behind everything.

To be honest, what we've just covered here is barely scratching the surface of a proper understanding of spacing and density management considerations.  For a first-year planter though, it's enough to get you started.  The key take-away lesson here is that you need to get your density right, and in order to do that, you need to make sure your spacing between trees is accurate and consistent.  Instead of using a measuring tape to measure between each tree, throwing a plot on yourself is a quick way of seeing if you're on the right track.  Even if you don't check the quality of each tree in your plot thoroughly, a quick density plot can be thrown in less than a minute.  If you have the right number of trees in your plot, you'll feel more confident in proceeding at full steam ahead.

Your instructor and your foreman will throw some plots with you, to make sure you completely understand how to take plots quickly and accurately.  Taking a quick plot will ultimately save you time, rather than just costing you a minute or two, because it'll let you know if your density is on track.




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Here’s an Audio version of this material, in case you want to listen while you’re driving, running, at work, or otherwise unable to read or watch video:




Click on the down-arrow icon in the upper right corner of the SoundCloud widget to download the mp3.


Once again, for further information about this series of tree planter training information, visit:



I encourage you to share this information with anyone else who might be interested.  Thanks for your interest and support!

-          Jonathan “Scooter” Clark





Tree Planter Training 11 - Common BC Coniferous Trees

Although this blog is predominantly focused on my music and DJ’ing career, I also want to share some information about my other career:  Canadian Reforestation.

The information in this post is part of a training series from the Replant.ca website.  More information can be found at this link:



I’ll put the text and audio download link from this training module below, but let’s start with the YouTube video for the module:




Section 11 - “Common BC Coniferous Trees”

In this section, we'll examine some common coniferous tree species that you'll need to be able to identify when planting in BC.  I'm going to cover the three species groups that you'll most commonly encounter in the northern Interior.  I'll also talk in less detail about species that you're less likely to encounter in your first year of planting, but which are commonly planted in the Southern Interior or on the coast.

First, let's make sure that we all understand some basic scientific and non-scientific terms for certain groups of trees.  Coniferous and deciduous are two scientific terms.  Some people with a basic knowledge of trees think that these terms are opposites, and that all trees are either coniferous or deciduous.  Strangely enough, that's not quite correct.  I'll explain that in a minute.

Conifers are trees that are cone-bearing.  Examples include pine, spruce, fir, cedar, hemlock, larch, and tamarack.  Coniferous trees have needles instead of leaves.  In most cases, these needles stay on the tree even during winter.

Deciduous is based on a Latin term and means "falling off at maturity," so this term refers to trees or shrubs that lose their leaves seasonally.  Most deciduous trees don't have cones.  They can have all kinds of different types of seeds, from the paired propeller seeds of the maple, to the familiar small pitted seeds found in an apple, to acorns and chestnuts, to the fine light powdery fluff of the trembling aspen.  Most deciduous trees have leaves instead of needles.

Evergreen is a colloquial term that refers to “trees that still look green during the winter.”  Evergreens are almost exactly the same as coniferous trees, because most coniferous trees do not shed their needles in the winter, thus they are “ever green.”  However, the larch is an exception.  The larch is the only coniferous that sheds its needles each fall, and grows new needles in the spring.  Therefore, the larch is coniferous but is NOT an evergreen.  The tamarack is a type of larch, although some people use the term interchangeably with all larch trees.

So this leads to an interesting question.  If larch and tamarack lose their needles each year, are they considered to be deciduous?  Yes, they are.  They're in a rare category called deciduous conifers.  They lose their needles each winter, and they have cones.  There are a couple other species of deciduous conifers in North America, although I believe that the larch is the only example that grows in BC.

Broadleaf is another somewhat unscientific term.  It refers to trees with wide leaves instead of needles.

You'll hear about hardwoods and softwoods sometimes, especially with respect to lumber or firewood.  This refers to the density of the wood.  Of course, the density of different trees covers a huge range, not just two specific types or measurements, so you'll have some softwoods that are more dense than others, and you'll have softer hardwoods.  Basically, hardwoods come from angiosperms, which means that they're flowering plants.  This covers the broadleaf deciduous trees, like birch, oak, elm, chestnut, aspen, cottonwood, and so on.  A gymnosperm tree is one that has seeds that are unprotected by an ovary or fruit.  Most softwoods are gymnosperms, including conifers like pine, spruce, and fir.

When you first start planting, if you're at one of the companies planting in northern BC, you'll probably only be planting two species groups at least 95% of the time: pine and spruce.  Sometimes, you'll be planting only one species on a block, which is referred to as a monoculture.  At other times, you'll be mixing species.  Of course, within BC, there are several types of pine and several types of spruce.  The same applies to firs, cedars, and other species.  We'll get to that in a few minutes.

Identifying the species of the seedlings that you're planting is usually not too difficult.  That's because your boxes of trees are labeled.  However, you'll need to learn to identify them by sight, not by a label on a box.  Also, seedlings start to look a little bit different as they start growing into real trees.  This matters because you'll also need to be able to identify the types of trees growing on the block.  This is tricky because your seedlings don't always have a uniform appearance, and also because there might be half a dozen different species that are growing naturally on a block.  You'll have to learn to identify them all.  We'll start small, but make no mistake, this is important.

Trees and plants can be identified by a number of means, including their form, bark, cones, buds, wood structure, and more.  Identification by leaves or needles is a good start.  However, some things like the characteristics of the buds can really give you some extra clues.  You'll be working mostly with young trees, called seedlings.  When you're looking at naturals on the blocks, you'll see a mix of germinants, seedlings, and saplings.  A germinant is a naturally-growing tiny tree that's just starting to grow, so it's as small as or even smaller than the seedlings that you're planting.  Let's say that a germinant is probably less than three to six months old, and probably less than six inches in height.  Seedlings, whether naturally occurring or from the nursery, are usually between several months and two years old, and perhaps between six inches and a few feet in height.  Saplings are young trees between about two years and ten to twelve years in age, which can range in size from knee-height to being taller than the planters.  Juvenile trees is a broader term that encompasses both seedlings and saplings.  There are obviously a few grey areas in determining exactly what to call immature trees at various stages in their growth cycle.

For first-time planters in the northern parts of BC, if you can learn three species, you'll do fine.  These are pine, spruce, and fir.  Unfortunately, from this point, it's going to get confusing really fast.


Pine

There are over 120 species of pine around the world, including dozens in North America.  There are four types of pines planted commonly throughout BC.  Pines are easy to distinguish.  Lodgepole pine is the king, and it's pretty much the only pine planted in the northern half of the province.  When you think of pines, think of pioneers.  Pine trees are not shade tolerant.  They like to grow out in fresh openings on new cut-blocks, rather than in the shaded understory of an existing forest.  Lodgepole is called the “two needle pine” because it's the only type of pine where the needles occur in pairs.

If you're planting in the Interior, you'll see Lodgepole Pine abbreviated as Pl or Pli (think Pine, lodgepole, Interior).  If you're planting on the coast, you'll see it abbreviated as Pl or Plc (think Pine, lodgepole, coastal).

Pine trees can be identified easily because they usually have much longer needles than spruce, fir, and other species.  Pine needles are usually at least 5cm long in mature trees, often closer to 8cm.  Also, the needles are relatively sparse due to their size.  In young seedlings, pine are the floppiest trees you'll plant, so sometimes you need to take a bit of extra care to keep them planted reasonably straight.  The needles are probably the softest of all the coniferous trees.  Pine needles are usually a rich green color, maybe with a tinge of yellowish.  The bark is smooth in young trees, but thick and scaly in mature trees.  Probably about half of the seedlings planted in northern BC are pine.

Pine trees do great in sandy, well-drained soils.  They'll still grow in wet ground, however, it's just not what they'd prefer.  Pine cones often need a lot of heat to crack open.  Usually, when a forest fire sweeps through a pine plantation, the heat from the fire will pop open many of the cones and release the seeds to start a crop of young trees.  It can sometimes get also hot enough at the surface of an exposed cut block in the summer to pop the cones open.

Pine is one of the most valuable commercial species, used for both lumber and pulp.  Generally speaking, pine is used for higher-value carpentry items such as furniture, panels, wood frames, floors, and roofing.  Pine has no natural decay-resistant or insect-resistant properties, so it is almost always used for indoor carpentry.

Tree planters generally prefer planting pine trees, even though they're floppy.  This is because they're generally lighter and smaller than spruce trees.  Also, the needles are soft, so they don't prickle planters' arms and give you a rash like spruce trees can.

The Mountain Pine Beetle infestation has devastated around sixty percent of the pine forests across BC over the past decade or so.  Some people say that we should plant more pine to replace the pine that's been killed.  Some people say that we should plant less pine, because the beetles will just kill it eventually.  No matter what contract you're on, a pine natural is almost always considered to be an acceptable natural if it's in good shape.


Spruce

There are about thirty-five types of spruce worldwide, but only about five types are planted commonly throughout BC.  These are a bit more confusing, because they don't have a dominant sub-species.  White spruce and Engleman spruce are both planted in moderate amounts as pure species.  However, there's a certain type of hybrid that's sometimes called Interior spruce, which is probably planted most commonly.  There's also Black spruce, which is the most water-tolerant of the spruce varieties, so it's usually planted on swampy or wet blocks.  It doesn't grow to be as large or healthy as the other types.  If you're going to a block prescribed for mostly black spruce, you can assume that it might be a bit nastier than your average block.

If you're planting Interior hybrid spruce, you'll often see it abbreviated as Sx.  White spruce is Sw, Black spruce is Sb, and Engleman spruce is Se.

Spruce is a very important species in reforestation in BC's Interior, especially in the northern half.  I'd estimate that probably over 45% of seedlings planted in northern BC are spruce.  Spruce trees are fairly shade-tolerant.  They grow more slowly than pine, but they eventually overtake pine in height after a few decades.  As seedlings, they have very straight stems.  You'll have to make sure they're standing straight when you plant them, because you won't be able to blame a lean on the floppiness of the tree.

Spruce trees are quite tolerant of high moisture levels in the soil, so you'll often see foresters asking you to plant spruce in depressions and low areas of blocks.  Again, if you get into truly swampy ground, black spruce will probably be a better choice than other varieties, if you have a choice.

When spruce is sold as lumber, it's less expensive than pine.  It's often used for general construction purposes, such as for studs, plywood, framing, etc.  It's also used in the production of several types of musical instruments.  Spruce does not have any decay-resistant or insect-resistant properties, so it isn't suitable for outdoor use unless it's been painted or treated.

Planters usually find it difficult to tell spruce trees and fir trees apart, because they look fairly similar.  Let me give you a few hints that will help you identify a spruce:
- Spruce needles are four-sided.  You can "roll" them between your fingers easily.
- Spruce needles are prickly at the tips.  If you grab a spruce branch and squeeze it, it'll feel uncomfortable.
- Spruce needles grow out in all directions from a twig on a branch.
- Spruce needles sometimes, but not always, have a bit of a bluish tinge to them.

Spruce is almost always considered to be an acceptable crop tree, so you'll probably have to space off spruce naturals if they have good form and vigor.  Form refers to the shape of the tree, and vigor refers to whether or not it looks healthy.


Fir

There are five species of fir found in British Columbia.  These can be divided into the balsams, which are true firs, and the two species of Douglas Fir.  The Douglas Firs are false firs, although they're quite close to true firs.  Subalpine fir, which is much more commonly known as "balsam fir" or just "balsam," is the type of fir that first-year planters need to be most aware of.  The needles are three-sided, technically, although you'll only notice that if you examine them very closely.  It's easier to say that they're fairly flat.  If you look really closely, you might also notice that the needles have a notch at the tip, and have whitish lines on both sides.

Once you start getting further south in BC, you might start to encounter Interior Douglas Fir.  The needles on a Douglas Fir are also fairly flat, although they have a pointed tip instead of a notch.  The upper surface is bright yellowish-green if you're looking at an Interior Douglas Fir, although on the coast they're more bluish.  There should be a single groove down the center.  The easiest way to determine if a young tree is a Douglas Fir or a Balsam is to look at the little buds and also at the needles.  If the buds and needles are pointed, it's a Douglas Fir.  If the needles are notched and the buds are rounded, it's a Balsam.

If you're planting in the Interior, Douglas fir is abbreviated Fd or Fdi.  On the coast, it's either Fd or Fdc.  Balsam is abbreviated Bl.

All of the fir trees, like pine, are considered to be pioneers.  They grow quickly after fires.  You'll also notice a lot of young balsam fir growing alongside a lot of ditches, where they get more sunlight than in under the canopy.

When trying to differentiate between a spruce and a fir, these tricks will help you:
- Fir needles do not roll easily between your fingers, since they're almost flat.
- Fir needles are fairly soft.  If you squeeze a branch, it won't be as prickly as a spruce.
- Fir needles grow from branches in a sort of fan-like pattern.  Look at the bottom of a branch.  If it's bare, it's probably fir.  The needle pattern will be flatter on the top than with a spruce bough.
- In the Interior, Fir trees are usually more yellowish/greenish tinged than spruce, although this isn't always a reliable test.

It's important to be able to tell Douglas Fir apart from Balsam, because of their financial worth.  A balsam isn't worth nearly as much as a Douglas Fir.  You'll usually be instructed not to treat Balsam Fir as an acceptable crop species.  In other words, don't space off it, if you encounter one while planting.  Douglas Fir on the other hand are quite valuable, so you'll almost always be told that it's an acceptable crop tree, and you'll be expected to space off it.


Other Important Species

In the Interior, especially in the northern half of BC, you're mostly going to be planting either pine or spruce, or a mix of the two.  As you move further south, you might see Douglas Fir, Balsam Fir, and a few other species added to the mix (perhaps larch and cedar).  Once you get to the coast, it's not uncommon to be planting five or six species simultaneously, although red and yellow cedar are often the dominant species.  Here's a more detailed list of some of the species that are planted throughout BC.  If you're a first year planter, don't worry about memorizing these just yet.

Amabilis Fir (Ba) – similar to balsam, and grows in low elevation coastal areas.
Grand Fir (Bg) – grows in lower elevations on the southern coast & in the Kootenays.
White Spruce (Sw) – mostly found in pure plantations north of Dawson Creek.
Sitka Spruce (Ss) – a low elevation, coastal spruce.
Engleman Spruce (Se) – grows at high elevations.
Yellow Pine (Py) – three needle pine, found in lower elevations in the Southern Interior.
Western White Pine (Pw) – five needle pine, found on the coast and in the Southern Interior.
Whitebark Pine (Pa) – five needle pine, bluish-green, high elevation Southern Interior.
Western Hemlock (Hw) – top branch of tree droops, coastal & Interior wet-belt.
Mountain Hemlock (Hm) – higher elevations than Western Hemlock.
Western Larch (Lw) – Northern BC, needles in bundles of 15-25.
Tamarack (Lt) – Northern BC, needles in bundles of 15-25.
Western Red Cedar (Cw) – very common coastal and Interior wet-belt species.
Yellow Cedar (Yc) – coastal, bright yellow-green colour, seedlings sometimes look plastic.
Paper Birch (Ep) – hardwood, grows all over BC, bark peels off in strips.
Trembling Aspen (At) – a soft hardwood, found all over BC, leaves tremble in light wind.
Black Cottonwood (Act) – shiny, waxy oval or wedge-shaped leaves, sticky buds.
Bigleaf Maple (Mb) – winged seeds, only found in the southwest corner of BC.
Red Alder (Dr) – coarse toothed edges on leaves, woody catkins, grow in coastal areas.

If you want to learn more about the plants and trees you'll discover on your blocks, look for one of two books:  "Plants Of The Southern Interior British Columbia" by Robert Parrish (easy to find), or "Plants of Northern British Columbia" by Andy MacKinnon (hard to find).




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Here’s an Audio version of this material, in case you want to listen while you’re driving, running, at work, or otherwise unable to read or watch video:




Click on the down-arrow icon in the upper right corner of the SoundCloud widget to download the mp3.


Once again, for further information about this series of tree planter training information, visit:



I encourage you to share this information with anyone else who might be interested.  Thanks for your interest and support!

-          Jonathan “Scooter” Clark





Tree Planter Training 10 - Stock Handling

Although this blog is predominantly focused on my music and DJ’ing career, I also want to share some information about my other career:  Canadian Reforestation.

The information in this post is part of a training series from the Replant.ca website.  More information can be found at this link:



I’ll put the text and audio download link from this training module below, but let’s start with the YouTube video for the module:




Section 10 - “Stock Handling”

In this section, we'll look at Stock Handling.  We'll talk about the preferred methods of handling boxes, the preferred on-site storage methods, and we'll demonstrate how to handle seedlings and bundles correctly.


Once the trees arrive on-site to your planting camp, in a large truck or reefer, tree planters are the primary link in handling the seedlings until they're finally planted in the spots where they'll spend the rest of their growing lives.  This is the part of the seedlings' journey where stress can be most easily introduced, so it's important for us to treat the young trees with care.

How you handle seedlings will directly affect their survival.  From the time a seedling leaves the nursery, it's at risk.  There are obvious ways to mishandle trees, but you shouldn't underestimate the effect that a series of small stresses can have on seedlings.  Each stress is cumulative.  Once weakened, a seedling has less resistance to future stresses that it will encounter once planted.


On Site Seedling Storage

Once the trees are at the site, they'll need to be taken care of in a manner that maintains their optimum temperature and moisture.

Here are some basic rules for onsite seedling storage:
- Protect them from direct sunlight and temperature extremes.
- Thaw any frozen seedlings slowly and naturally, within closed boxes or under tarps.  The roots and plugs of seedling bundles should never be exposed to direct sunlight and air flow.
- If the plugs of the seedlings aren't very moist, give them a bit of water occasionally.  Don't soak them.
- Keep seedlings out of standing water or mud so their roots can breathe.
- Keep seedlings covered whenever possible, by natural shade, or by a reflective covering.
- Whenever possible, your main seedling cache should be a refrigerated trailer unit, referred to as a reefer.  The temperature in the reefer should be maintained between one and four degrees Celsius.  This is the optimum temperature to store the trees, until they're removed from this main cache and moved into trucks for their trip to the blocks.


Handling Seedling Boxes

Seedlings are sensitive to being crushed, and the trees undergo stress if the boxes are dropped.  During transportation in trucks or on ATV's, rough access adds stress to the seedlings.

Here are some basic rules for handling seedling boxes:
- Handle boxes carefully, without dropping or throwing them.  When unloading a reefer, slide them up the floor, and don't let the boxes crash out the end onto the ground.
- Keep the boxes upright, as seedlings can also be crushed when the boxes are crushed.
- If you need to stack boxes more than two boxes high, use a pattern of alternating orientation that strengthens the structural integrity of the pile.
- Keep the boxes closed when you're not bagging up.
- Don't sit on, stand on, or stack heavy objects on the boxes, if it causes the boxes to be crushed.
- Try not to ever let tree boxes get wet.  The cardboard is treated with wax, but the boxes still degrade when wet, and they'll crush more easily.  Storing trees in a reefer is always better than using a bush cache.


Correct Handling of Seedlings and Bundles

The highest risks to seedlings are when you handle them in bundles while bagging up, and as individual seedlings while you're planting them.

Your trainer or foreman will show you the proper way to load seedlings into your planting bags, also knowing as "bagging up."  Depending where you're working, you may be asked to use reflective inserts known as "silvicools" in your planting bags, to keep seedlings cool.  With the exception of your drawbag, which is the insert or inserts that you're actively drawing trees from, any other reserve inserts should be kept closed if it's a hot or sunny day.  Don't come back to the cache to take a break while you still have trees in your bags.  Make sure you bag out first, so seedlings aren't sitting in your bags for an unnecessary amount of time.

When you're planting, moving a seedling from your bags to the hole can damage it in numerous ways.  The laterals, needles, or the top bud (known as the leader) can be damaged.  The roots can be shaken or bent with rough handling.  Be gentle with the seedling as you're moving the tree out of your bags.  Don't unwrap too many at once, because on a hot day, the plugs will dry out faster.  At the end of the day, if you're stuck with some trees remaining in your bags, rewrap any loose trees, close the drawstrings on the inserts, and store the bags in a cool, safe place.  Your trainer or foreman will demonstrate the best way to handle the seedlings while you plant.


A bit of jostling around is inevitable for the seedlings.  However, we want to avoid unnecessary violence.  By treating them with some respect, you can have a significant effect on improving their survival rate.  Just like people, young trees are more susceptible to being hurt than mature trees.  Treat a box of trees just like it's a box of babies.  You don't want to being throwing boxes of babies around.




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Here’s an Audio version of this material, in case you want to listen while you’re driving, running, at work, or otherwise unable to read or watch video:




Click on the down-arrow icon in the upper right corner of the SoundCloud widget to download the mp3.


Once again, for further information about this series of tree planter training information, visit:



I encourage you to share this information with anyone else who might be interested.  Thanks for your interest and support!

-          Jonathan “Scooter” Clark





Tuesday, January 4, 2011

The Peppermill - Peppermill Records, Peter Krahn

Peppermill Records is a fun little netlabel based in the mountains of British Columbia, attempting to make interesting musical art. Although the label is sort of a Collective, a friend of mine, PK, is a driving force behind the entity.

Peppermill specializes in collaborative projects, with artists taking part from every corner of the planet. All the albums they make are free downloads once they're finished.


 




As their website suggests, "Because Peppermill is totally non-profit, we don't have money to spend on promos and so we highly encourage you to spread the word! If you like one of our releases, let your friends know, and write about us in your blog. Shout our names from the highest peak. Tattoo 'peppermill' across your bicep. Anything to help us grow! That way we can convince more talented people to take part in our projects, and we all win." So right now, I'm making this post to help promote them.

I first came across Peppermill when Peter mentioned it to me, because they published a double album of tree-planting songs. It was called, Hi and Ho, We Plant Trees. The songs were brilliantly witting and topical to the industry, and the album was well done. I promoted it on my tree planting website, and thousands of planters are familiar with the project.

Right now, Peppermill is in the middle of a rather intimidating project called 2999. Every Friday night for a full year (except New Year's Eve), they're releasing a new track by a different producer. The project started back in July, so they still have a full year to go. Basically, they asked their producers to envision what the world might look like 989 (now 988) years from now, to soundtrack the end of the 30th century. The works are often electronica-based, experimental, and avante-garde. Very innovative and creative stuff. If you're into that kind of music, I think you'll definitely find it to be very enjoyable. Click on the graphic above to go to the 2999 Project page on the Peppermill website.


I'm Jonathan Clark, known online as DJ Bolivia.  Do you want to learn more about DJ'ing and music production?  If so, visit:



If you happen to enjoy techno tracks, most of my tracks are available as free downloads from this link:



Thanks so much for visit, and for your support!  I really appreciate the fan base that I've been able to build up over the years.

Also, if you want to visit any of my other sites, here are a few links:
    YouTube:  youtube.com/djbolivia
    SoundCloud:  soundcloud.com/djbolivia
    Blogger:  djbolivia.blogspot.com
    Main Site:  www.djbolivia.ca